sangsara.net

Month: February 2024

  • Week 8.24

    Week 8.24

    We spent the last three days of our road trip in Auckland, returning the car to a desolate parking garage and then ordering an Uber from the side of the road with our luggage. When we got in, the driver confirmed “So you’re checking in to the Hilton? Not impressed with the parking lot?” which was low-key one of the best jokes that week.

    I already mentioned eating many burgers, but from our brief tour of restaurants across the North Island, it really seemed like New Zealand cuisine is made up of steaks, brisket, pork belly, oysters, fish and chips, and lamb chops. The renowned local beef is as amazing as you’d expect. As a tourist, this is nothing to complain about, but I’m certain I’d find the narrow range a little tiring if I lived there.

    There are local beers and many craft beers, but Heineken is held in strangely high regard; maybe a result of its relatively high price as an imported product. In Singapore, I’d say it’s on the second rung from the bottom above Tiger and Carlsberg for many people, a slightly better lager for not much more money. Anyway, the wine game is so strong it’s a wonder anyone drinks beer there (we did, though).

    I think Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings films put New Zealand on the map more than anything else in the past century, but we passed on visiting the Hobbiton film set as neither of us are really fans — I sometimes explain that I hate fantasy settings because there’s no electricity and it’s just filthy people sitting around fires — but it wouldn’t be right to go all the way to NZ and not at least touch that iconic surface.

    So we booked a Weta Workshop tour in Auckland, which turned out to be part-theme park, part-showcase and gift shop. They’ve structured an experience around three fictional films their team supposedly worked on but didn’t get released, which provides a narrative device to show off their craft in conceptual world building, model making, special effects make up, and cinematography. It is not dissimilar to making a video game! You come up with the setting, the rules of the world, character designs, then get sculpting.

    Did you know? Weta worked on the Ghost in the Shell live-action film, making Scarlett Johansson’s silicone suit and other cyborg designs.

    Another highlight of our time there was a “Maori cultural experience” at the Auckland Museum and War Memorial, in which photos were allowed but discouraged, and so I don’t have any to share. There are several opportunities for tourists to see and engage with Maori culture, but when we looked at Tripadvisor reviews, it seemed like some are really commercialized dog and pony shows amounting to little more than cosplay theater, and we weren’t really keen on that.

    In contrast, the museum’s program is a 30-minute demonstration and explanation of some select rituals (which we would call “songs” or “dances”, but are really social instruments for building community, passing down knowledge, and so on) by a talented group of Maori people who apparently manage to hold day jobs in science and education on top of this. On top of preserving their ways, a focus of this experience was showing people from other cultures how easily histories like theirs are colonized and reduced. For example, clapping was not encouraged, because it turns their sharing into a performance, and simply because they don’t clap in their culture. I gave myself points for feeling icky about all the people fresh off their cruise ships clapping at the start, way before they were informed of this.

    I promised to share the AI-assisted itinerary of our trip, so here it is.

    The route we planned in Apple Freeform

    Day 1: Auckland to Wellington

    • Arrive in Auckland and catch a domestic flight to Wellington.
    • Evening in Wellington: Walk along the waterfront, find some dinner.

    Day 2: Wellington

    • Visit Te Papa Tongarewa Museum for an insight into New Zealand’s history and culture.
    • Take the cable car to the Botanic Garden for city views.
    • Evening: Explore Cuba Street for its vibrant nightlife and culinary scene.
    • What we really did: Had cocktails at Elixir and dinner near the hotel.

    Day 3: Wellington to Martinborough (1.5 hour drive)

    Day 4: Martinborough to Havelock (3 hours drive)

    • Breakfast at one of the cafes in town
    • Depart Martinborough, taking State Highway 2.
    • Stop in the town of Masterton and visit the Awatoi art and history museum (this was an unplanned stop after we saw a billboard by the highway)
    • Stop at Pukaha National Wildlife Centre.
    • Dinner in Havelock North: there are some nice restaurants in the town center
    • Stay in Havelock North

    Day 5: Havelock and Napier

    • Walk/hike in Te Mata Park and drive to the peak.
    • Head into Napier for lunch at a vineyard: We had bookings for lunch and a tour at Church Road Winery.
    • Local seafood dinner in Napier (as mentioned last week, we chanced upon the annual Art Deco Festival).

    Day 6: Napier to Rotorua (3 hours drive)

    • Depart Napier for Rotorua
    • Stop in Taupo for lunch by the lake
    • Parasailing over Lake Taupo in the mid-afternoon -_-
    • Stop at Huka Falls
    • Continue to Rotorua (another hour, so you’ll arrive in the early evening)

    Day 7: Rotorua to Auckland (3 hour drive)

    • Drive to Whangamata
    • Stop at The Cider Factorie along the way for lunch (this was an unplanned stop but was great)
    • Stop at Hunua Falls
    • Arrive in Auckland in the evening, return car
    • Dinner along Princes Wharf

    Day 8: Auckland

    • Visit Weta Workshop for a tour
    • Go up the Sky Tower for panoramic city views (we got a combo Weta + Sky Tower ticket online)
    • Lose some money in the Sky City casino
    • Beer, wine, dinner

    Day 9: Auckland

    • Visit the Auckland War Memorial Museum for Maori and Pacific Islander artifacts. The Maori Cultural Experience (twice a day, book ahead) is highly recommended.
    • Shopping downtown
      OR
    • Full day: Take a ferry to Waiheke Island for more vineyards, beaches, and hiking trails.

    Day 10: Depart

    ===

    As always, returning to Singapore’s heat after a little time in a temperate climate was brutal. It’s one of the main reasons I would entertain the idea of moving away or owning a second property somewhere. It’s often said that a little sunshine and walking does wonders for your mood and helps people with depression, and I really did feel a lot less weight on me coming back with a watch tan after 10 days, but this weather is not made for walking. And so I expect this feeling will fade with the tan.

    Since coming back, we finished Season 7 of Below Deck, and I’ve just gone totally off Captain Lee and Kate now, formerly the least-bad people in that toxic stew of management hell/training that I’ve recommended people watch the show for in the past. We’ve now started on Below Deck Down Under, and the Australian captain there is a breath of fresh air. Where Captain Lee stayed in his bridge oblivious to the crew’s troubles with bullying and insubordination, this one is hands-on, leads by example, and even joins them for dinner (but wisely not clubbing) on the first night out. You already know he sees what’s going on, who doesn’t pull their weight, and knows how to address it. To top it all off, he’s hot and the interior girls can’t stop looking at him.

  • Week 7.24

    Week 7.24

    We landed in Auckland, New Zealand Monday morning and immediately flew down to Wellington, and we’ve been driving our way back north for the past few days. I’m currently writing this while sitting beside a Buddha’s head in a poolside garden, in a small new hotel outside of Rotorua.

    Four hours ago, I was parasailing above Lake Taupō in my usual urban uniform of jeans and a t-shirt — if you know me, you’ll know that I don’t sign up for even remotely dangerous things, especially over large bodies of water; in the cringey words of Below Deck repeat charter guest, Dean Slover, I said “homie don’t play that!” But Kim convinced me to, and we survived. They played Maroon 5 songs on the boat going out, and so by the time we were lifted some 50 meters in the air to float in blissful silence high above the town, I was having a good time. Lake Taupō is a volcanic caldera that’s nearly the same size as Singapore, but because it’s all flat you can just about see from one end to the other from up there. New Zealand challenges the city dweller’s sense of scale like all good nature vacations.

    Since leaving Wellington, the road trip portion of the trip so far has been mostly measured in burgers, fish and chips, and winery stops, specifically in the Martinborough and Hawke’s Bay areas where the tastings have been revealing of each company’s nature: some overly commercial and strictly scripted, versus others more informal, just going on vibes the only way they know. I think the difference shows up in the wine, with wineries in the latter category being more playful with flavor, more likely to put better stuff in a low-priced lineup. But I would say that, as someone who’s now had a crash course in holding up his glass against the light to observe the color.

    I’m now lying in bed on Sunday evening having just finished the last leg of our driving tour, which took us to the famous Whangamata Beach bordering the Bay of Plenty, and Hunua Falls, where we did another little nature walk and met a nice dog and helped its owners get a photo together with their iPad. Old people really carry full-sized iPads around on hikes to use as large-screened cameras. Mind blown.

    A couple of observations on this road trip. So much roadkill! Easily a hundred little bundles of fur spotted spread across tarmac just today alone. Some decayed and washed away, little more than stains. Some still fresh, bloating, bleeding. We avoided making contact with all but a couple. A ritual evolved, mainly to stay alert but also out of pity for these bunnies or squirrels(?): upon spotting one, I would put my palms together and say “rest in peace”, and Kim would follow with “in all your pieces”.

    FM radio is still not a great experience; it’s a wonder how people survived on it for so long. Fortunately I had a lot of downloaded music on my iPhone, which also navigated us with offline maps. CarPlay is excellent, and Apple Maps was good enough for nearly every leg of the journey. We listened to Lorde’s albums, of course, as well as the Sunkissed Summer playlist she compiled on Apple Music, and other New Zealand legends like Bic Runga and Crowded House. At one point I put on some J Dilla but learnt that rhythmic music you can sort of nod and zone out to is NOT what a driver wants over long winding roads.

    As I mentioned last week, this itinerary was drawn up with ChatGPT and my custom GPT, AI-tinerary, but we had to fact-check everything and plot the route on a map before making bookings. It’s held up well so far, with a couple of impromptu detours and chance discoveries along the way. For one, we did not realize that while passing through Napier for one night that we’d be there for the Art Deco-obsessed city’s annual Art Deco Festival, the first one they’ve been able to hold since 2020. Vintage cars were out in force, there was a Warbirds air show, and a free concert on the beach. It was packed, every restaurant was booked out. We ended up eating dinner out of a food truck by the sea. I asked ChatGPT “what’s happening in Napier tonight?” and it confidently replied, “I couldn’t find any events tonight.” At the risk of sounding like a broken record, these tools truly are starting points and aids right now, and you must resist the idea that they are final answers.

    I’ll post the final version of our itinerary next week when we’re done, in case it helps anyone looking to do the same.

    All photos were taken by either a Ricoh GR III or iPhone 15 Pro Max. The extra 120mm equivalent reach of the iPhone came in very handy, but there’s no beating the image quality of the GR when it comes to landscapes. The light was so good that some photos taken with the Standard color profile, straight to JPEG, were surprisingly “finished” out of the camera. This year’s iPhone still wants to make everything bright and sharp, which fails to capture atmosphere and preserve highlights. I edited photos daily as quickly and lazily as possible, using RNI Films for most of it — at some point they added the ability to save edits on top of original files (non-destructively), which is a key consideration I look for in photo apps. I’ve also started using RAW Power again late in the trip, which is making me want to go back and redo some edits. Maybe on the flight home.

  • Week 6.24

    Week 6.24

    It was Chinese New Year week and it’s not been the same for several years, partly because of Covid and because many key relations have simply gotten old. My uncles and aunties, for decades only known to me by honorary titles describing their places in the family hierarchy, are getting ill, weak, and unwilling to leave their homes or receive visitors. Several years ago I started to ask what their actual names were, because I grew up literally calling them names that translated to second son of third uncle, or eldest paternal uncle; I’ve often wondered why Chinese culture has mechanisms that foster emotional distance between children and adults, a tradition that feels increasingly out of touch with today’s world. But that’s how it goes.

    I remember the typical CNY reunion dinner for many years as something to get through with gritted teeth and withheld snarky jokes, and if you’d told me then that I would look back now on those as the good times, I would have despaired. Now they appear as charmingly awkward and well-meaning attempts to bond, by people I might never get to wish a happy new year to again. I always thought the idea of an annual reunion made more sense against the backdrop of a vast country like China, but now that it’s hard to connect for all sorts of reasons even across our tiny one, I see the real terrain is time and memory, and so many relationships die starving in those fields. That’s how it goes too.

    ===

    One of our friends lost his dad this week. He was by all accounts the kind of guy you call a ‘real character’. He went from a corporate career to a becoming writer in retirement, putting out three books in the last decade or so. Because we didn’t have any reunion dinner commitments at the usual time, we were able to attend his funeral wake and share in some lovely stories from the family. They managed the joke that this terrible timing right in the middle of festivities was the last prank he’d play on them. I learnt he had a regular blog, which he kept going even after suffering health setbacks — that’s dedication. Every week I wonder what I’m going to say here and always think the streak’s about to end.

    Even the funeral was remarkable for the fact that he planned it all himself, leaving behind detailed instructions on what he wanted, to the point of getting his own headshot taken and sealed in an envelope which his family only opened after he was gone, so they wouldn’t have to fuss over this stuff at the worst time — that’s love. It got me thinking that everyone should prepare their own playlists and slideshows too. I might get started on it this year. Don’t be surprised if you come to my funeral and hear that Chinese AI dub of Van Morrison on repeat.

    ===

    Other activity:

    • I’ve started on a new book and only read two short chapters but I already know this is something special. It’s People Collide by Isle McElroy.
    • We are back watching Below Deck and I’m still sure that this is one of the best management trainings you can get for your time. Every single season is full of unnecessary crew drama because people don’t communicate expectations, don’t provide clear feedback, and allow emotional reactions to escalate. I get that it’s not easy, and I’m not sure I do it so well myself, but the lines between action and consequence are so clear here; they’re literally edited together for entertainment. Another lesson: everyone is flawed. The people you root for because they’re usually sensible? Sometimes they fuck up! Working relationships are rarely black and white.
    • Kanye West finally released Vultures two months its initial release date, with a new cover and possibly a different tracklist. I haven’t heard it yet. But once again, Apple Music has not recommended me music I’m interested in, although I’m quasi-certain it will be featured somewhere in the app in the next few days. Right now the Singapore ‘Browse’ page is full of Chinese New Year related music that I definitely do not care about.
    • After working too hard and not getting enough rest, Kim’s sort of fallen ill now, with me feeling a milder version of it. The timing could not be worse: we’re off on holiday soon, the kind where sneezing and aching and feeling weak might derail a complex itinerary.
    • Speaking of which, I used ChatGPT to help plan this vacation, and I’ve taken those instructions and made a custom GPT called AI-tinerary which might help you if you’re going someplace new and want to create a multi-day schedule of things to do. It can work off your individual interests and transport modes, as well as answer other travel-related questions you may have. At some point I’ll be able to make it plot your route on a map (if you ask it now, it’ll generate some wacky DALL•E map drawing that you should absolutely NOT follow).
    • You should know by next weekend whether these AI-generated plans worked out, or if we tried to stay in towns that don’t actually exist.
  • Week 5.24

    Week 5.24

    Vision Pro and AirPods Max hypotheses

    Apple Vision Pro is out in the wild, and I’ve gone on the expected rollercoaster — from “of course I’ll get one, but only when it’s officially released here”, to “nah I think I’ll wait till the second iteration”, to the usual FOMO and wanting one as soon as possible.

    But it might not be such a terrible idea to wait for the second iteration, if one believes that it’ll come some time in the middle of 2025. Why then? I looked at how quickly second-generation products were released in Apple’s recent history, and it ranged from 11 months (iPad) to a year and five months (Apple Watch). I think a 12-month release cycle is plausible, and putting out new ones at WWDC makes sense as they’ll want to emphasize the visionOS platform for developers.

    Which might then suggest the global Vision Pro rollout this year will start in June. So international early adopters will be putting down at least $3,500 to use it for a year before they need to upgrade. And we know that selling a first generation AVP on the pre-owned market is 1) a tough job, if the second generation irons out obvious wrinkles, and 2) not something early adopters want to do anyway, given the sentimental value of keeping your ‘first spatial computing device’.

    While we’re out here predicting future releases, I think I’ve cracked why the supply chain analysts believe an AirPods Max update is coming this year with USB-C and new colors, but without an upgrade to the H2 chips (currently only found in the AirPods Pro) which enable Conversation Awareness and Adaptive Audio modes. The reaction to this rumor has generally been: “that would be a lame update to the AirPods Max after four years”, but okay what if it’s not an update? What if it’s a new variant model?

    Specifically, it could be the lower-cost, lower-weight “sport” model with different materials and/or a swappable headband that was rumored to be “coming soon” back when the AirPods Max first released. Everyone assumed it would be released a year after, but because it’s been so long, we’ve forgotten that was even supposed to be a product. A cheaper non-Max/Pro headphone model without the latest features would make the same sort of sense as the iPhone 5c, which had all the features of its premium predecessor — but funner. Then the real AirPods Max update can come in 2025, and honestly, if you’re making them well, five years between headphones is the right cadence.

    Electric toothbrushes

    It’s been about two weeks since I started using an electric toothbrush again, and the difference in efficacy and convenience is so notable that I don’t know why I stopped when my last one broke during Covid. There are so many essentially disposable models on the market now in the S$20–30 price range that I didn’t see how the S$200+ models justified themselves. Bluetooth app connectivity? It seemed ludicrous.

    To my untrained eyes, there were two basic designs: an elongated brush head that vibrates (this is the dominant kind), and a small circular head that rotates back and forth. I used an Oral-B one of the latter sort for a little while once but it hurt my gums and I ended up throwing it out. I decided to give it another go with an Oral-B Pro 2 model, but with an “ultrathin” head with gentler bristles this time, and haven’t had any problems. It cost me about S$75, presumably on account of having a rechargeable battery and dock, and I was beginning to think I should have just gone for the Pro 1 model that runs on AA batteries and costs S$30.

    But of course it’s not that simple. After more research, I discovered there are actually three categories of motorized tooth cleaning devices: electric, sonic, and ultrasonic. The Pro 1 has fewer vibrations per second than the Pro 2, but both probably still fall into the electric class, which is to say they clean with brush movements only, and don’t produce sonic vibrations that interact with fluids and help to knock plaque right off your teeth. Oral-B now has a range of toothbrushes called iO that combine an oscillating head with sonic vibrations, 3D teeth tracking AI (no, really), and you guessed it, they cost S$300–400.

    ===

    Media updates

    • I’ve never been into Grimes’s music because the few songs/videos I’ve encountered were awful, and of course her association with Elon Musk is a major turnoff. But I saw a tweet saying her breakthrough album “Visions” was turning 10 years old, with words to the effect of it being so great that the rest of her career was doomed to never top it — so of course I had to check it out. I’m pleased to report that it’s actually pretty good, maybe even great. For an electronic album, I didn’t expect it to sound so influenced by R&B? This whole separating the art from the artist thing is pretty wild.
    • That whole album was recorded in Garageband, and while I’m no musical talent, I wrangled it this weekend to finally clean up and join up the bootleg recording I made with my iPhone’s Voice Memos app back in Chiang Mai in December. It was 50 mins out of an hour-long solo piano set played by Joshua Lebofsky, amidst cafe noises of steam wands, fridges slamming shut, and people chatting. It starts super strong, with him singing an uncommon medley of Tears For Fears’ Everybody Wants to Rule the World and Lionel Richie’s Easy. I’m very happy to finally have it in my music library, ready to be revisited at any time.
    • I had a cab driver one night this week who sang along to songs on the radio. He was no great singer, but I loved the joy of it. The station miraculously queued up three great songs in a row — the aforementioned Tears For Fears song, followed by Sheryl Crow’s cover of The First Cut is the Deepest, and Phil Collins’s In the Air Tonight — which I remarked upon, and we got to talking. He told me he was really into Tears For Fears back in the day, and that they asked Phil Collins to play drums on their song Woman in Chains, wanting some of that magic touch. I promised him I’d listen to it again over the weekend, and I did.
    • It was decided (in my brain) that Easy might be my favorite song, and so I programmed our HomePods to play it throughout the entire apartment every Sunday morning at 10:00 AM as long as someone is home.
    • I was glad to hear from Michael that he loved the Slow Horses TV show, and binged three years’ worth (just 18 episodes, really) in a week. He also discovered that the theme song isn’t some Rolling Stones deep cut they licensed, but an actual new Mick Jagger song commissioned for the series!? I finally finished reading the first book but found the experience such a close retreading of the first season that I’ve decided not to read any more of them. It would just be like rewatching the existing seasons and spoiling the ones to come.
    • We got a chance to go and see the new Apple TV+ film Argylle at its local premiere. It’s an action-comedy about spies directed by Matthew Vaughn, who also directed other action-comedies about spies such as the Kingsmen series. This one primarily stars Bryce Dallas Howard, Sam Rockwell, and Henry Cavill, and is a fun enough time that I can recommend it. One thing that surprised me: the “new” Beatles song Now and Then features heavily throughout the film, with its melody forming a major recurring theme. I looked it up and they had the song for over a year before it came out and had to keep it a secret. Check out the symphonic version with a choir on the soundtrack.
    • Amazon Prime Video has put out all eight episodes of their new action-comedy series about spies, Mr. and Mrs. Smith, with Donald Glover and Maya Erskine playing reimagined Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie roles. We’ve seen two so far and it’s going very well.