Just had my first ever “soup curry” in Shimokitazawa, which unbeknownst to me is also considered a curry town (like Jimbocho in last week’s update), albeit focused more on authentic “spice curry”, as opposed to the sweeter Japanese adaptations of British-adapted curries. It came with a whole chicken leg and an impressive 20 kinds of vegetables, costing about ¥2000. Thoroughly delicious and a healthy meal (I told myself), although we did have to wait over an hour in a virtual queue for it.
Taking a photo would have gotten you thrown out before
To pass the time, we stopped into Bear Pond Espresso for one of their famous Dirtys and a cup of their proprietary Flower Child blend. The coffee is still as good as it ever was, but the vibe has changed now that the famously surly owner isn’t behind the counter. The last time we came and saw him, his mood had brightened up tremendously; he was taking off early to walk his dog in the sun, and even stopped to tell us its name. Perhaps he’s now retired. Good for him.
Afterwards, an obligatory stop into Village Vanguard, a “bookshop” whose closest kin is probably Don Quijote (or as it’s known in Singapore, Don Don Donki), that self-described shopping jungle where haphazard aisle placement is intentional and designed to get you lost and overwhelmed in a good way. VV has books, media merch, stickers, physical music, gacha, plushies, clothing, you name it. If I could actually read Japanese, I’d never be able to leave.
Back to food for a minute. We booked a “katsu omakase” meal before coming out here, featuring multiple cuts of perfectly cooked Japanese pork, and separately had an impromptu sushi omakase in Roppongi, where we got in just after lunch hour and had the whole counter to ourselves.
We also tried some Mister Donut, which is known in Singapore for always selling out, but here in addition to the perpetual lines and wide selection of sweet bakes, it’s also a place you can sit down and have… fried rice!?
I haven’t stepped into either a McDonald’s or Burger King (and probably won’t), but for posterity’s sake, I will record that the former is currently selling a line of “New York-Style” burgers with , which sounds like bullshit to me because one of them has a prawn cutlet. The King is more on brand with a monstrous Yeti burger that has four quarter-pound patties dripping with creamy “white cheese”.
Most museums are closed on Mondays or Tuesdays, but you can’t always rely on their websites for accurate updates. We found that out the hard way on Tuesday, which was also a national holiday, when we traveled nearly an hour to Nerima Art Museum only to discover it was closed — their site said otherwise.
But we made up for that fail on Wednesday and Thursday with visits to the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo (MOT), and the Mori Art Museum, respectively.
MOT is hosting the extremely popular, TikTok-viral Ryuichi Sakamoto tribute: Seeing Sound, Hearing Time. We must have stood in line for 45 minutes to get in, but it was certainly worth it. The final room was probably the highlight, where you see an ethereal “hologram” of him playing on a real piano with keys synced to a MIDI performance he recorded. Spectral visualizations of each note rise from the piano as he plays, and it’s like watching his ghost play Guitar Hero in reverse. There’s also an outdoor portion that you might already have seen online: a dense “fog sculpture” you can wander through. Walking through it is disorienting and like being in a video game scene. You can barely see past your outstretched hand, and other people fade into view through the white mist. There’s a feeling that someone might come recklessly running and knock you over. All around us, Japanese people kept saying “Yabai!” out loud.
Thursday was opening day for Machine Love at Mori Art, and by going early in the morning, we caught the artist Beeple (famous for selling a $69M NFT at Christie’s) unveiling a new “software update” to his work HUMAN ONE, tailored to Tokyo and this exhibition in particular. In it, the eternally trudging humanoid AI robot was transported from a post-apocalyptic world to a new rainbow-colored cartoon world filled with derivative Asian imagery like pandas and pagodas. It was like a parody of Takeshi Murakami’s work, but he also attended the following day, so I guess he’s cool with it.
Then on Sunday, I visited the National Art Center in Roppongi, which is interesting for the fact that it’s more of a hosting ground for smaller organizations that want to hold exhibitions, and not a museum with its own collection. I saw a couple of calligraphy shows (admittedly hard for me to appreciate), a show featuring young and new artists, and the results of a couple more annual open competitions. I spend just $10 for an entire afternoon’s worth of interesting ideas, and am now thoroughly saturated with imagery.
I made the mistake of going to Akihabara over the weekend, after Kim had gone home (I’m staying on for a little bit), leaving me free to eat all the curry rice I want and spend hours in electronic stores. It was more crowded than I can ever remember seeing, and not in any positive way; people were lugging large suitcases around and blocking narrow aisles with them, among other inconsiderate acts. I left exhausted and feeling somewhat ill (the number of coughing and sneezing people around didn’t help). The place is a victim of its own reputation, I guess, and now tourists have ruined the place for everyone. Like Chernobyl, it might be 50 years before one can safely visit again.
Two weeks ago, I asked why no one has created an all-in-one vinyl/CD/cassette player yet. Yesterday, I saw one at Yodobashi Camera. Granted, it probably sounds terrible, and the ¥18,500 (S$163) price doesn’t inspire much confidence either. If someone makes a better version of this, though, I’d be up for it.
One thing I still love doing is browsing the video game sections at these large retailers. Although some of the physical games are region-free and contain English translations, I’m not really there to buy anything — my backlog is deep enough to last for years. The fun is in seeing games really thrive in the real world, with cartridges alongside plushies, keychains, and other accessories. There are sadly no such equivalents back home. Inevitably, I’ll see Japanese-specific box art and pick something new up to look up online, or be reminded of a title I’d heard of but forgot to wishlist, and by the end of it, become more inspired to head home and play more games. After a couple of such experiences, my wishlist is now deeper, and I’ve bought a few new digital titles as well.
Incidentally, Perplexity released a new “Deep Research” mode which has nothing to do with OpenAI’s Deep Research product, and I asked it to find me Nintendo Switch games set in Eastern Tokyo that I might play while living here, for greater immersion. Amazingly, it succeeded. It was able to find one game, PARANORMASIGHT, that was developed with the help of the Sumida city council and tourism board (why they agreed, I do not know, because the game involves at least one of the parks being haunted). It’s also available for iOS. Impressively, Perplexity was also able to extrapolate that the region is known for sumo wrestling, and identified games involving sumo that might be of interest. All in all, not a bad feature to have! Free users get five questions a day, paid users get hundreds more.
I realized almost too late that I had neglected to shoot more panoramic photos this trip, which are really great to view on Vision Pro and have the effect of transporting you back to places you want to remember. I’m trying to make up for that now.
We spent Monday strolling around Jimbocho, an area permeated by three of my favorite smells: books, coffee, and curry. I don’t know how many of the district’s 140~ bookstores we managed to see, but it’s something else. So nice to see the reading and collecting of printed material still alive, although you have to wonder where these used books and magazines (e.g. an issue of GQ with Jerry Seinfeld from when he was just getting famous) came from — the personal libraries of dead or dying hoarders?
There were also more stores selling CDs and vinyls, and I saw new models of portable players for sale at an electronics store. There are DiscMan-like devices that output Bluetooth to your headphones and speakers (alas, no AirPlay), and even a cassette player with Bluetooth. They look pretty cheap and plasticky though; nothing you’d put in a nice spot on a shelf to form a modern hi-fi unit.
We had lunch at the original Maji Curry restaurant in Jimbocho, and I’m pleased to report that the outlet in Singapore is pretty much the real deal. The fondue cheese sauce here is better, but that’s really nitpicking. Well done to the franchisee/team for bringing it over authentically, unlike Coco Ichibanya’s!
I’ve been on the lookout for cool gachapon miniature items to hang on my bag. So far, I’ve gotten Ricoh GR1 cameras (two of the same silver model), a MiniDisc, a wooden bird call, an Evangelion VHS episode tape with Rei Ayanami on the cover, a Nissin Cup Noodle, and a Johnsonville sausage pack (that I lost when the chain broke off somewhere). It’s quite a millennial weeb collection.
We intended to start each day early to make the most of the limited sunlight. We also underestimated our laziness/tiredness and how hard it would be to get out of bed on a cold day.
On Tuesday, we were forced up at sunrise for a sake brewery tour that was booked weeks ago. We met our guide at Shinjuku station before 9 a.m. — just imagine the crowds — and discovered it was a private tour for just the two of us. It was a nice day of “countryside” day drinking and not-at-all forced conversation with our guide, a 24-year veteran of Japan (originally from Britain via Zimbabwe).
We’ve just visited the Advertising Museum Tokyo, near the Dentsu headquarters and almost certainly funded/run by them. Outside, there’s a free-use space with chairs and tables, and while many seats are occupied by people working on laptops, there are more than a few salarymen sleeping with their heads down. It’s a tough life. Joni Mitchell’s Carey is playing from some speaker nearby.
At my beloved Go Go Curry for lunch now, and it’s the best of the three Japanese curries we’ve had so far (Maji is close behind; CoCo had a poor showing at the Asakusa-eki branch, but I’m confident they’ll deliver next time). But the price of the “Grand Slam” plate with everything on it has shockingly gone up to ¥1700. It was originally ¥1000, and when we came after Covid, it was maybe ¥1200. Inflation is hitting hard here.
Go Go Curry’s Singapore menu
Come to think of it, when Go Go Curry opened in Singapore in 2009, the cost of the equivalent menu item was S$18.50, or about ¥2000. It’s taken Japan 15 years to catch up to that price.
Leica launched a new iPhone accessory: the Leica LUX Grip. It’s a new design for the camera grip made by Fjorden, which was acquired by Leica recently and which has been responsible for the LUX app. It attaches to the iPhone via MagSafe and adds a two-stage shutter button, a control dial, and two programmable function buttons. It honestly looks pretty good, and if the LUX app improves its photo processing to get rid of the iPhone’s Smart HDR look, it will make a pretty nice “camera”.
It’s available now in Singapore for S$450, and when I stopped in at a Leica store here in Tokyo and asked if they had one to look at, the salesman actually laughed, saying no dates for a Japanese launch have yet been announced. What the heck?
I was super excited to see the new Ricoh GR Space in Shibuya, as I used to love their old RING CUBE museum/gallery in Ginza that closed down in 2020. The staff were super friendly and (I found this odd) thanked me sincerely when they learnt that I’ve been a supporter of the series from the GRD days. I was hoping to buy a little finger strap like the one that came with the GR III Diary Edition, but they don’t sell those piecemeal. Oh well. It was well worth the visit.
Still on the lookout for nice souvenirs and Japan-exclusive gadgets, but it seems those days are long gone and generally the global electronics market is extremely flat now with online shopping and Chinese e-commerce platforms like AliExpress. But! While at Beams (clothing retailer), I discovered this Bluetooth speaker that is the exact shape and size as a cassette tape for $50. Despite not expecting it to sound any better than my iPhone’s built-in speakers, I bought it on sight. An hour later, I found a non-Beams branded version at Hands for about $10 less. That’s… fine, I guess.
There are great PSA ads here warning against perverts who take upskirt photos and molest people on trains. I’ve been collecting a few (ads, not perverts).
We arrived in Tokyo after dark and headed to a nearby supermarket for apartment essentials: toilet roll, hand soap, face towels, etc. Supermarkets here open till 11 p.m. or midnight, which I did not expect. We’ve been seeing more 24-hour supermarkets back home as well, so maybe that’s just how people shop now (or how late people work now).
The domestic produce here is, unsurprisingly, beautiful and better than anything you can easily find in Singapore. Prices range from a little more to a GTFOutta here more. I mean, look at those tomatoes. We’ve also been eating some lovely strawberries from a random fruit stand near Gakugei-daigaku station.
My foray into videography was short-lived. After just a day, I’ve gone back to just taking photos. It’s too much work to break in the habit of filming scenes with camera moves and multiple angles whenever something interesting appears.
We ducked into a used records store that carried both CDs and vinyls, and for a short while, I entertained the thought of getting a new CD player to put my teenage collection back into service. If I can find a nice-looking one that supports AirPlay (ha) to our HomePods, then I might. Why hasn’t anyone made an all-in-one, retro revival-ready CD/cassette/LP player with decent quality? They’d make a killing.
Sleep eluded me for two nights. It was the combination of a smaller bed, snoring, and variable room temperature while we figured out the settings. Things got better once I busted out my Loop Quiet II earplugs. They’re well worth the $20-odd bucks.
AccuWeather shows the city has a constant dry air advisory in effect. That’s certainly true in our apartment when the heating is on, and now we’re going to buy a cheap humidifier from 3 Coins (aka ¥300), a Daiso-esque home goods chain that has some really nice products like a 3-in-1 iPhone/Apple Watch/AirPods charging stand and even transparent Switch Pro-style controllers for about S$26. It’s funny that in Singapore I’m constantly dehumidifying, and here it’s just the opposite.
It’s not really that cold. Between 0° and 11° is fine by me, but 15° and sunny would obviously be ideal.
There’s a longstanding idea/stereotype that the Japanese diet is low on vegetables, and I suppose historically that might have been true, with most of it in pickled form? Sean and Cien were just here too, and they’d read that people keep their toilet businesses running smoothly with the help of probiotic milk drinks. Specifically, this Meiji R1 product (or Yakult). We bought some; the verdict’s still out. Meanwhile, trying to get a healthy dose of mealtime fiber with vegetable ramen, side salads, and shredded cabbage, and honestly, the prevalence of vegetables is no different from what I’m used to.
We had dinner at a yakitori restaurant featured in a video on the Japan By Food YouTube channel, and all the local diners were ordering raw chicken tataki, which funnily was not on the English menu given to tourists. But one hot dish we ordered, chicken neck shu mai, came with pink bits of effectively raw meat inside. When in Rome…
It was meant to snow on Sunday, but that didn’t end up happening. We made it out on foot to a nice coffee shop (apparently a branch of a Sydney business), and then spent the morning in the Hokusai museum looking at a small slice of his insane output over 90 years. He apparently produced over 30,000 works, including woodblock prints, sketches, and paintings. I remember having a poster of The Great Wave in my university bedroom way back when (like many of you, I imagine), so it was nice to see the “real thing”.
I’ve used my Ricoh GR III and iPhone cameras probably an equal amount. The former in JPEG-only mode, with the factory Positive Film settings (not to be confused with zeroing each setting; there is actually a “recipe” that they ship with), and the latter in ProRAW. I misspoke last week when it came to the Nitro app. It’s still too buggy, and I couldn’t bring myself to pay for it in this state so I’ve gone back to the developer’s previous app, RAW Power. It’s very good, and with my soon-to-be-released color film LUTs and tone mapping disabled, the iPhone can honestly look like a proper camera. Apple’s default look is… realistic but not romantic.
I was looking through my archives to see what happened this time last year and found that I did a fun “music awards” post in late December, which I don’t have the energy for this time around. However, I can pick three personal favorites.
Song of the year: Not Like Us — Watching the Kendrick and Drake beef unfold in real time while on vacation in Hong Kong, waking up each morning to hear yet another song released while we slept, and then having this incredible, perfect banger drop at the end? It was a great time to be alive.
Album of the year: It’s a tie between Audrey Nuna’s TRENCH and Maggie Rogers’ Don’t Forget Me. Audrey stretched the fuck out of her sound in the most creative manner possible, to the point that Apple Music classifies the album not as Hip-Hop, but Indie Pop. Like a great Kanye album, it’s filled with little moments that anyone else would have turned into whole songs — this is an album of sonic riches and solid vibes. In contrast, Maggie’s is a streamlined, quickly recorded distillation of everything that makes her great, without extraneous electronic production or gimmicks. Just ten great songs with a band. I must have played it a dozen times when it came out.
A playlist
While I didn’t get around to making my customary “best of the year” playlist (usually titled Listening Remembering 20xx), I did finish compiling BLixTape #5, which is a bunch of songs I enjoyed between June and December. Taken along with the previous installment, it gives a similar picture, although not strictly made up of songs released in 2024.
Girl, so confusing featuring lorde — Charli xcx & Lorde
Eusexua — FKA twigs
We Are Making Out — Mura Masa & yeule
Scumbag — ROLE MODEL
Creatures in Heaven — Glass Animals
Petco — Cassandra Jenkins
In The Living Room — Maggie Rogers
Beaches — beabadoobee
So Glad You Made It — Fantastic Cat
Empty Spaces — Eliot Bronson
Our Town — Iris DeMent
Lately — Fiona Apple
Kaze Wo Atsumete — Happy End
Fear When You Fly — Cleo Sol
Wildfires — Sault
Darlin’ — Jean Dawson
This Is Who I Am (From “The Day of Tomorrow”) — Celeste
Free Fallin’ (feat. Kina Grannis) — Imaginary Future
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Japan, again
We got back from Langkawi on Monday and immediately started to stress about our upcoming trip to Japan, which has only been a foggy plan to hang out in Tokyo and eat a lot of curry rice, at least on my part. We’ve at least confirmed where we’re going to stay: a sort of serviced apartment unit that’s twice the size of a regular hotel room, for less money. How’s that possible? There’ll be no housekeeping, and the location isn’t as convenient as the hotel we were considering (but still within core Tokyo and walking distance to bus and train stations).
Since I don’t have any pressing need to return when Kim does, I plan on staying on a little longer on my own. Maybe another 10 days, which should be enough time to crawl every floor of Yodobashi Camera and drink my weight in highballs. Who am I kidding? It’ll be the middle of winter and I’ll probably stay in bed with my Switch and watch Japanese daytime TV.
People sometimes say it feels like I go to Japan a lot, but honestly it’s only every three years or so, on average. This will be the longest vacation of my life, and I’ll finally be like one of those people I’m always meeting who say unbelievable, envy-inducing things like, “I visit Tokyo three or four times a year, just to shop and eat”, and that casually tossed-out favorite: “Oh, I was just in Tokyo for a month”.
I’m looking forward to visiting the Tokyo Photographic Art Museum in Meguro, among many others. We gave it a miss the last time around, so it’s been at least six years since we visited. The same goes for the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum in Ueno, and the National Art Center, Tokyo.
Pure photographic exhibitions seem like a rarity here, so when we heard one was on now at the National Museum of Singapore, it became the plan for the second day of the new year. Amazônia, by Sebastião Salgado, is one of the best uses I’ve seen of the basement gallery space at the National Museum (usually turned into a linear maze with temporary walls). This time, it’s an open space with loose walls created by the photographs themselves. The show is a mix of these large, suspended landscape prints and smaller, intimate portraits of Amazonian tribes, some of them still living by their ancient ways and getting odd facial piercings that most modern-world deviants wouldn’t emulate.
Media Activity
We finished the second season of Shrinking, the lovable Apple TV+ series that probably does therapy more of a disservice than it intends to. Harrison Ford actually gives a shit here (unlike his other cash grabs), and it’s some of his best work. Recommended.
I saw two films involving (false?) choices behind doors.
Sliding Doors (1998) is a film I bought on a pirated VCD like 25 years ago and never got around to watching. I imagined it to be a slick 90s rom-com, but it comes in with slightly low-budget vibes. Maybe Gwyneth wasn’t a big star yet? There’s some slightly clumsy editing, and some shots don’t work. But you can feel the writer/director’s passion for this story coming through, and it’s an alright weekend film. 3 stars.
Heretic (2024) is the latest installment of Hugh Grant playing against rom-com type, and it seems to be an immensely popular career move. I largely enjoyed the film, which is part-horror, part-media history and religious lecture. That is, up until the ending. 2.5 stars.
It’s the end of another year. The events of last December feel far away, but the summer feels like yesterday.
I’ve spent the last four days on the island of Langkawi, Malaysia, which I might have visited at some point in the distant past; too distant to remember at all. While others in the family entourage have been jet skiing and kayaking, I’ve been making use of the new Kobo Clara Color that I got as a Christmas present and reading in the shade. It’s still bright enough that I’ve managed to get an indirect sunburn/tan.
The Clara is a nice change from my first-generation, black-and-white Libra H2O, not just because of the color screen (which admittedly only shows up in the menus and book covers), but also the smaller and handier form factor that fits in almost any bag, and even some pockets. You wouldn’t know from looking at it, but it’s almost the exact same height as an iPhone 15 Pro Max. Plus, USB-C charging. I never thought I’d become one of those people who cite USB-C support as a critical feature, but it’s happened.
Aside: I finally got a Labubu as part of a Christmas gift from Kim, and as Sara texted me in shock a while back, its fur truly is “very soft” to the touch. She got it through a connection in Thailand, where it was purchased from a shop that specializes in accessories and clothing for these things?! So mine came with a hat (with a hole for its ears to poke through), and a toy camera that actually produces shutter sounds and flashing lights.
After reading reviews of the new color-enabled Kobos, I was worried that the reportedly fuzzier screens would bother me, but thankfully I can barely see any issues in terms of resolution. Black-and-white text is still rendered at 300dpi and looks sharp enough in daylight. The only drawback of the E Ink Kaleido 3 screen technology compared to Carta is reduced contrast in dimmer environments. It looks like black-on-gray rather than black-on-greenish-almost-white. But with the use of the front light above 50% brightness, it’s a non-issue.
Thanks to this break and the 1.5-hour flight over, I was able to finally finish reading Butter after at least two months of dilly-dallying. Despite being about a serial killer, food, and Japanese culture, I cannot recommend it. The story is mostly a bore, and the writing/translation mostly consists of straightforward “[name] did this, and then did that” and “‘blah blah blah’, [name] mumbled to themselves” sort of sentences. I find this to be true of many Japanese books in English, so I wonder if it’s an artifact of what’s popular in modern Japanese fiction or a translation process that is too rigid.
Whatever the case, it was an immense joy and relief to read the colorful and personable prose of Prayer for the Crown-Shy afterwards; it simply felt like being able to breathe again after a long spell underwater. It’s a nice little sequel to Psalm for the Wild-Built that only took an hour or two to get through, and then I read Book #24 in the Jack Reacher series: Blue Moon. It was the final book that Lee Child wrote on his own, and from here on out, they are all collaborations with his son, if I’m remembering correctly. I believe the plan was for said son to take over the franchise, but then Dad decided he wasn’t ready after all and got involved again, which is such a Miyazaki thing to do.
In any case, it’s one of the better Reacher books, with a cast of ad hoc ex-military partners joining him for one time only, and an interesting strategic problem to solve (not just a crooked sheriff in a small town). And by solve, I mean murder his way out of. Reacher is a certified psychopath in this story, executing more people than I can keep track of.
The flight over was the only time I got to listen to any music, but I’ve been really enjoying the new album from Snoop Dogg and Dr. Dre, Missionary. The first single released was underwhelming and I thought this was going to be another forgettable collection from Snoop. But Dr. Dre isn’t just producing here, he’s on the mic too, and this work in general reminds me of his final solo album, Compton, which has honestly powered me through a few tough times. The D.R.E. absolutely still has it.
It’s been a minute since I checked the National Gallery out, so I wasn’t sure what Peishan and I would find when we dropped by on Tuesday afternoon. Fortunately, there were some new SE Asian pieces either freshly out on rotation, or that I’d forgotten, and there was enough to see without having to shell out for the special exhibits.
There’s plenty of time to see them yet, as they don’t refresh things very often. I looked it up online later, and some of the stuff we saw will be on display for 3–4 more years. Apparently only 10% of the total collection (stored somewhere in Jurong) can be on display at any one time, so I don’t know why they rotate so infrequently. Show me more of the stuff before I die, dammit.
We went by because Peishan took the day off and we’d planned to have lunch nearby. It struck me that I haven’t been appreciating the privilege of my free time enough — I should be doing things like this on my own more often.
We saw a brilliant video artwork series of Thai farmers and villagers sitting on the ground out in the fields, contemplating large Western paintings set up in front of them, casually discussing what they saw. Just saying things like “The man is sleeping soundly. He looks happy because they’ve harvested so much food”. I wanted to stand there and watch it in its hour-long entirety when it struck me that there’s nothing stopping me from coming back another day to do that. To be one of those people who has a whole hour to spend sitting in front of one painting. So maybe I will!
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My mother-in-law (who has no stomach for violence or misery) came to stay with us for a couple of days, which meant that I could only watch the family-friendly movies from my collection and MUBI watchlist. We started with Charade (1963), a classic I can’t believe I’d never seen before. Audrey Hepburn was a phenomenon — utterly faultless and impossible to look away from. With Cary Grant we’ve got our modern day version in George Clooney, but I don’t know who could ever be like Audrey.
We also watched Futura (2021), an Italian docu-feature where young people across the country were interviewed about their hopes and dreams. To me, it only reinforced the idea of Europe in decline, and yet maybe that’s… okay? What’s so bad about living in the shadow of a greater civilization and inhabiting what’s left of their magnificent buildings. Someone’s gotta do it.
And then a movie that has been so hyped up by everyone who’s seen it that there was little chance it would live up: Paddington (2014). Nicolette, whose cats we also visited this week (see below), was a major promoter and reckons it’s a five-star film. I gave it 3.5 but plan to watch the sequel soon—I think it’ll fare better now that my expectations are properly calibrated.
I was left to my own questionable watchlist on Thursday and Friday, which meant seeing Festen (1998), the first official ‘Dogme 95’ film (painful in its overall ugliness); Ema (2019), a dance-centric exploration of fucked up families and urban frustration starring Gael García Bernal and Mariana Di Girolamo as two assholes who adopt a kid; and In the Fade (2017), a German revenge story with Diane Kruger avenging her son being blown to bits by modern-day Nazis.
The absolute standout film of the week was So Long, My Son (2019), a Chinese language film by Wang Xiaoshuai with a three-hour running time. It follows two families over a period of three decades, living with tragedy and being tossed around by the rapid, true-story evolution of Chinese society. I expected the time to pass slowly but everything was handled with such authenticity and emotional power that I hardly noticed.
On TV, we caught up on season 2 of Netflix’s Rhythm + Flow rap competition reality show, and none of the contestants are really standing out the way Flawless Real Talk and D-Smoke did in the first season. It looks like Netflix decided to cheap out and rush the audition process, basically only holding one in Atlanta whereas S1 held them in three cities. So it never feels like you’re seeing the very best talent the streets have to offer.
The main effect of watching the show so far has been an increased desire to play Kendrick Lamar’s new GNX album on repeat. It also made look up Old Man Saxon from S1, so was delighted to find that he released a new EP and single recently.
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It was Thanksgiving week in the US, and trust me I tried to find a Black Friday deal that I wanted to spend on, but the only things I’ve bought for myself on Amazon were cheap alkaline batteries from Japan (the Verbatim brand is alive and well there!) and several boxes of Yorkshire Gold tea.
It feels weird, spending hours online and hardly finding anything I want to buy. On Sunday we spent a few hours at the Paragon mall for some Christmas shopping and I found myself a new 6L Venture Sling by Bellroy. It was cheaper than the online Black Friday price, but only because they wanted S$16 for shipping.
I also considered this 4L Everything Sling from Moment, but I think it’s too small to be the Goldilocks bag I need. I have Uniqlo’s round mini shoulder bag like 98% of the world, but need something between that and a laptop messenger/backpack. Just enough to bring around some combination of e-reader, Switch, camera, power bank, umbrella, JisuLife fan, and water bottle.
The only things left might be digital game purchases that I might have time to play in December, such as Metaphor: ReFantazio, the latest masterpiece from the director of the Persona games, or Like a Dragon: Infinite Wealth.
While the Persona games are undeniable masterpieces, they’re also looooong. Sometimes it’s nice to just sit down and finish a game in one sitting, so that’s what I did with Thank Goodness You’re Here, which is published by Panic Inc. (Untitled Goose Game, Firewatch). It’s a cartoony comedic platformer set in Northern England, filled with authentic accents, dialects, and small-town imagery — what you’d expect from a British company named Coal Supper. I highly recommend it, especially if you can find it on sale during the holiday season.
I just got back from a Sunday night dinner date in the East at a newish place called Carlitos. It was new enough that it didn’t have a Swarm entry, so I made one. That reminded me that the Foursquare app is about to be shut down, and I’m choosing to be optimistic about Swarm’s future. We’ve been promised some meaningful changes in the coming year and I hope the rethink will bring check-ins back in vogue.
Vision Pro updates
Kim got back from her work trip and the first thing we did was head out to the Apple Orchard store to pick up the new Belkin Head Strap that everyone’s talking about. And not a day too soon, because it’s now backordered into mid-December!
It is what it looks like: the top bit of Apple’s own Dual Loop Band, which you can attach to your existing Solo Knit Band — a rare best-of-both-worlds occurrence where the comfort, adjustability, and non-hair-mussing qualities of the Solo are met with the weight-relieving structure of a top strap. It works well, and I’m never taking mine off. I was using the Dual Loop before, but its thin strap that pulls upwards near the base of the skull cannot compare to the quality, fit, and comfort of the Solo band, which is such a wonderful design and product that it belongs in a museum.
I haven’t tried Spigen’s slightly cheaper version, but having read many reviews of how poor its adjustment range is, I can’t recommend you take the risk. You’ll want to get the tightness just right, so Velcro is the right solution, and Belkin has rightly made it.
Belkin was never an accessory maker I took too seriously in the last two decades, I mean, they made alright cases and cables, but I’d never choose them over first-party versions. That seems to be changing. This new Travel Bag for Vision Pro is further proof; it’s significantly smaller than Apple’s own Travel Case, and half the price.
1) Should have been in the box instead of the dual strap
2) $50 is overpriced but you’ve already paid $3500 so hard to complain.
3) When Apple knows an accessory is needed but doesn’t want to put its brand on it, it turns to Belkin (owned by a Foxconn subsidiary) https://t.co/oKM5HSIVi5
Career leak publisher Mark Gurman implied in the tweet above that Belkin is Apple’s secret partner; the one they go to when they want an accessory on the market but don’t want to make it themselves. The fact that they stock Belkin’s products in Apple Stores is supposedly proof. In this world, Apple knows the practical flaws of their own form-over-function accessories, and nudges Belkin (which is connected to Foxconn) into making uglier but more effective alternatives to keep customers satisfied. I don’t know if I believe it works exactly like this, but it’s not a bad arrangement? Let’s see if Belkin makes some kludge to access the power button on the underside of the new Mac mini, then.
A new Apple Immersive Video (AIV) feature was released this week, and a music video at that. It’s the song Open Hearts by The Weeknd, and Apple’s own press release says it’s a limited time exclusive for Vision Pro. Interestingly, they’re inviting people to visit their nearest Apple Stores to watch it, which means we’re entering a phase where the retail arm is positioned as providing free public access to the Vision Pro experience, not unlike the ‘Today At Apple’ sessions where people can learn to draw or take better photos with Apple products, even if they don’t own any yet. This is fine, but the barrier to getting people off their butts to see something cool (for free!) is somehow extremely high these days. Is this because the culture promotes ownership hand-in-hand with enjoyment, and people don’t want to try a device they already know they can’t/won’t pay for? I can’t afford a bottle of 55-year-old Yamazaki but I’d sure as hell have a free taste if offered one.
The new Apple Immersive Video from The Weeknd is worth experiencing. For one, it features a lot of movement but none of it is nauseating. I’m not sure if they’ve just figured out ‘one weird trick’ to make that possible.
Anyway, the music video is very impressive, as I said on Bluesky after seeing it. There are a couple of magical moments, some achieved with special effects and some that are just beautiful to experience in immersive video. For some reason, it never feels disorienting or nauseating even though the camera travels at speed for a fair bit. I wonder if they’ve cracked the motion sickness code and are inserting buffer frames or using some other imperceptible technique, but this bodes well for future productions. Perhaps it’s just very smooth dollying and sticking to just one axis at any time.
Apps
Perplexity: Google continues to struggle with integrating its Gemini generative AI models with search results in a way that doesn’t spit out lies, but Perplexity has been working great for me since I started using it earlier this year. It could be the types of questions I ask it, or the default stance of skepticism I adopt when it answers them (the sources are there for you to check, if something feels off), but it’s been a net positive for me and I keep the widget on my iPhone’s Home Screen and use it several times each day. In fact, I thought everyone was using it, and was very surprised to learn while talking to Viv that she had never even tried it.
This week, I got access to a year of Perplexity Pro for absolutely no money, thanks to a giveaway in Kevin Rose’s newsletter, and it feels great to have virtually no daily limit for Pro requests. Standard requests basically use a simpler model, think OpenAI’s GPT-3.5 series, which parses search results and writes an answer to your question. Pro requests use the latest models including Claude 3.5 and GPT-4o, and break your question down into its components before processing results, all to have a better chance of understanding what it is you’re trying to learn and answer accordingly.
I’m aware of the icky implications of Gen AI scraping and that this mode of bypassing publishers will probably destroy the web as it currently works. Perplexity claims to be paying publishers that it sources answers from, on a per-query basis that sounds similar to music streaming services, so it might be a best-alternative model worth watching. It’s an analogy that makes sense because of how Napster upended that entire industry through theft and wanton disregard for copyright laws… kind of like what AI companies are doing now.
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Mattebox: Now here’s a name I never expected to hear again. I first mentioned Mattebox on this blog 13 years ago in December 2011, when I posted some photos I took on a holiday to Bintan. What I remember is that it was a camera app (as opposed to a photo editor), modeled on the ergonomics of the Konica Hexar camera (respect), and that its developer (Ben Syverson) cared enough to replicate a film-like response to clipped highlights. That torch is currently being carried by the upcoming Fig Camera app. It appears I even made/shared a filter for it called Velvius, which proves this has been a longer-standing hobby than I thought.
Anyway it disappeared off the App Store a decade ago for reasons I never knew, and then reappeared last week completely rebooted and redesigned. It’s now an editor, but still leans hard into the making and sharing of filters. It even lets you share a filter as an App Clip, which means people can apply your looks without even installing the app — probably a first in the photography app world.
I’ve played with it for a little while today and am quite impressed. It focuses on editing ProRAW files, even disabling tone mapping by default for a less HDR look (the trend these days), and a Pro subscription (S$40/yr) unlocks granular controls to dial in micro contrast, black levels, noise reduction, and so on. It even simulates physical diffusion filters, a feature that’s rare these days after the discontinuation of the Tiffen FX app around the same time Mattebox disappeared.
The UI is MUCH better than before, and although I already own the RAW Power app which includes all the same adjustments mentioned above, I would rather do them in Mattebox because of how neatly they are laid out. For a “first” release, Mattebox 3.0 gets so many essentials right, from having a double-tap gesture to reset values, to saving edits non-destructively over originals. You can even export your filters as LUT and Lightroom preset files. I’d like to try making filters for it but will 1) need to subscribe and 2) learn to use its HSL curve system, which is different from what I’m used to.
I’d love to see:
Undo/redo for adjustments
Indicators for RAW files in the photo picker
Using the system photo picker, actually, so you can view by media type, etc.
Grain tool
Media activity
I finished reading Variable Star after two weeks and gave it 4 stars on Goodreads.
I started on Han Kang’s The Vegetarian, just because it recently won the Nobel Prize in Literature. I’m 32% through it and I can’t say it’s anything terribly special yet. I saw that Sara reviewed it on Goodreads seven years ago and (I’m paraphrasing) said it was the kind of mediocre East Asian book that Western readers just lap up.
I watched Megalopolis (2024) in one straight sitting, in a giant virtual theater in Vision Pro, and it kinda rocked. What a Taj Mahal-grade vanity project, a pastiche of Shakespearean and Capital-C for Cinematic bombast. Watching this, you wouldn’t think that Coppola knows anything about urban design or architecture, they’re just metaphors for the story he wants to tell about great (and very pretentious) thinkers who change societies. They’re just MacGuffins for a crazy CGI movie that owes as much to Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow (2004) as it does Fritz Lang’s Metropolis (1927). I typed that and then searched to see if anyone else made the same connection, and indeed they have. 4 stars.
We watched Look Back (2024). It’s an anime adaptation of Tatsuki Fujimoto’s one-shot manga work of the same name. It recently had a successful theatrical run in Japan, and I’ve been dying to see it since seeing the reactions online. It also played here, but I missed it, and it seemed weird going to the cinema for a film that clocks in at just 58 minutes. Amazon Prime Video secured the worldwide streaming rights, thankfully, and the whole time watching it I wondered why it wasn’t acquired by Apple TV+. That would have been a great fit. I don’t want to say too much about it, but it’s brilliant, beautiful, and a showcase of how animation can express feelings that live action could never. 4.5 stars.
Can I just take a minute to show you this Labubu I saw hanging on someone’s bag on the train? It’s carrying a Chanel bag like the very one it’s attached to! That is just so super cute to me, I think I have a brain worm like the future American Secretary of the Department of Health and Human Services.
This felt like a very long week, and I’d say my mood has been pretty low on account of two cockroaches: Donald Trump winning his second presidency, and an actual one I found at home (the last time was a couple of months ago). The fact that Kim is out of town probably added to the anxiety.
I’ve been keeping windows closed and things locked down, so my working theories for how the real one got in are troubling: it either crawled up a drain/sink or through a tiny gap along a false wall that I’ve since sealed with silicone. It was nearly dead, presumably from the poison I’d put out. I bet the ongoing renovations next door are also a factor; maybe they were driven out of their usual hiding places by the vibrations?
The last time I wrote about this topic, Michael texted me to say that while he was used to the idea of encountering cockroaches in the home growing up in NSW, Australia, he simply hasn’t encountered any since living in Tokyo. Which I’m sure is an exception — shortly after, I opened TikTok and was shown a “day in the life of an unemployed woman in Tokyo” video, and she’d just found a dead cockroach in her kitchen — but I’ve put buying a holiday home in Tokyo back on my to-do list.
On the other thing, I’m just deeply disappointed that someone who so explicitly displays who is he could be voted in again by many of the people he despises, and who will likely suffer the most over the next four years. As much as I have any right to be, I’m disappointed in American society, free markets, confrontation instead of collaboration as a default response, our collective governance of the internet, and the networks that propagate misinformation.
I don’t spend a lot of time thinking about politics, and I didn’t even know how to describe my political mindset. I found this Political Compass quiz that maps your outlook, and scored more left and libertarian, but leaning towards authoritarianism. Maybe it’s a product of being Singaporean, but there are some things that I don’t want left up to a gullible and/or selfish public. But it’s just shocking that people would choose to install an authoritarian of Trump’s quality! Aren’t there any charismatic, intelligent, and attractive psychopaths we could have instead?
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Perhaps I set myself up for a downer of a second half of the week by spending too many days mostly shut in and binging mostly mediocre anime to make use of my new Netflix sub.
There were some exceptions: I met Brian and Jussi for an evening beer along the river on the eve of the election. We thought it could go either way, but didn’t want to believe it. On the bus to town, I saw this older guy with cute plushies hanging from his backpack. Live your best life, dude. I still haven’t got a Labubu of my own yet. Over the weekend, I met Peishan and Cien for a rainy day brunch at Dough, where they have a really satisfying brunch plate (for about S$33 including tax). It included a “pancetta steak” — I guess a seared slab of pork belly — and awfully good scrambled eggs. I also stepped into a gym for the first time in my life that evening, not to work it off, but for a birthday party.
But, here’s the anime in question.
Oshi no Ko: The second season finished strong, and the third season is sadly at least a year away. I liked its deep dive into the production of stage shows, and its very specific endorsement of the “Stage Around” format where the audience is surrounded by a 360º stage, and their seats rotate to bring different sets into view. The “IHI Stage Around Tokyo” theater opened in 2017 and closed this April, so I guess I’ll never get to experience it.
Terminator Zero: I’d heard so many good things about this new addition to the franchise, and with Production IG involved, I was ready for something cerebral and beautifully animated. While the art was alright and recalled classic 2000s anime to my untrained eyes, the story is unnecessarily drawn out and the conflict isn’t very interesting. I ended up watching it at 1.5x speed, which made it feel normal, that’s how sluggish it is.
Tomb Raider: The Legend of Lara Croft: I’ve had this series bookmarked on Netflix for a couple of years, I kid you not. There was an empty placeholder detail page for it, and I added it to my list before there was even a cover image for it. I’m pretty sure I read somewhere that it was going to be anime, but as it turns out, it’s an awful American animation. I quit in the middle of the first episode.
Solo Leveling: I watched the entire season and am already having trouble remembering it clearly. It’s based on a Korean fantasy manhwa that feels like an isekai, where a weak fighter gains access to a floating UI that no one else can see, suggesting that he’s living in a simulation, and then levels up (which no one else can do) to become a formidable fighter.
Wind Breaker: Pretty generic brawler story where a gang of high school delinquents ‘defend their town’. Might not finish this.
Ron Kamonohashi’s Forbidden Deductions: A comedic detective show I watched an episode of over a year ago and forgot about. That I’ve now picked up again instead of better shows because I hate myself?
Oh, I also decided to watch The Substance (2024) while feeling lousy, which was not a smart decision because it’s so thoroughly depressing, but I loved it. It reuses some ideas and even shots from the director’s earlier short, Reality+ (2014), but is even more deranged and ham-fisted in its commentary on beauty than I could have ever imagined. French cinema must be protected at all costs. 4 stars.
XG’s second mini-album/EP came out, along with a new single, Howling. I love that they’ve put a song out into the world with a very prominent “awoooooooo” in it, and better yet, it echoes the yell in Led Zeppelin’s Immigrant Song.
sangsara.net 