sangsara.net

Tag: Travel

  • Week 52.24

    Week 52.24

    It’s the end of another year. The events of last December feel far away, but the summer feels like yesterday.

    I’ve spent the last four days on the island of Langkawi, Malaysia, which I might have visited at some point in the distant past; too distant to remember at all. While others in the family entourage have been jet skiing and kayaking, I’ve been making use of the new Kobo Clara Color that I got as a Christmas present and reading in the shade. It’s still bright enough that I’ve managed to get an indirect sunburn/tan.

    The Clara is a nice change from my first-generation, black-and-white Libra H2O, not just because of the color screen (which admittedly only shows up in the menus and book covers), but also the smaller and handier form factor that fits in almost any bag, and even some pockets. You wouldn’t know from looking at it, but it’s almost the exact same height as an iPhone 15 Pro Max. Plus, USB-C charging. I never thought I’d become one of those people who cite USB-C support as a critical feature, but it’s happened.

    Aside: I finally got a Labubu as part of a Christmas gift from Kim, and as Sara texted me in shock a while back, its fur truly is “very soft” to the touch. She got it through a connection in Thailand, where it was purchased from a shop that specializes in accessories and clothing for these things?! So mine came with a hat (with a hole for its ears to poke through), and a toy camera that actually produces shutter sounds and flashing lights.

    After reading reviews of the new color-enabled Kobos, I was worried that the reportedly fuzzier screens would bother me, but thankfully I can barely see any issues in terms of resolution. Black-and-white text is still rendered at 300dpi and looks sharp enough in daylight. The only drawback of the E Ink Kaleido 3 screen technology compared to Carta is reduced contrast in dimmer environments. It looks like black-on-gray rather than black-on-greenish-almost-white. But with the use of the front light above 50% brightness, it’s a non-issue.

    Thanks to this break and the 1.5-hour flight over, I was able to finally finish reading Butter after at least two months of dilly-dallying. Despite being about a serial killer, food, and Japanese culture, I cannot recommend it. The story is mostly a bore, and the writing/translation mostly consists of straightforward “[name] did this, and then did that” and “‘blah blah blah’, [name] mumbled to themselves” sort of sentences. I find this to be true of many Japanese books in English, so I wonder if it’s an artifact of what’s popular in modern Japanese fiction or a translation process that is too rigid.

    Whatever the case, it was an immense joy and relief to read the colorful and personable prose of Prayer for the Crown-Shy afterwards; it simply felt like being able to breathe again after a long spell underwater. It’s a nice little sequel to Psalm for the Wild-Built that only took an hour or two to get through, and then I read Book #24 in the Jack Reacher series: Blue Moon. It was the final book that Lee Child wrote on his own, and from here on out, they are all collaborations with his son, if I’m remembering correctly. I believe the plan was for said son to take over the franchise, but then Dad decided he wasn’t ready after all and got involved again, which is such a Miyazaki thing to do.

    In any case, it’s one of the better Reacher books, with a cast of ad hoc ex-military partners joining him for one time only, and an interesting strategic problem to solve (not just a crooked sheriff in a small town). And by solve, I mean murder his way out of. Reacher is a certified psychopath in this story, executing more people than I can keep track of.

    The flight over was the only time I got to listen to any music, but I’ve been really enjoying the new album from Snoop Dogg and Dr. Dre, Missionary. The first single released was underwhelming and I thought this was going to be another forgettable collection from Snoop. But Dr. Dre isn’t just producing here, he’s on the mic too, and this work in general reminds me of his final solo album, Compton, which has honestly powered me through a few tough times. The D.R.E. absolutely still has it.

  • Week 19.24

    Week 19.24

    I’ve been sick for days, probably a bug I picked up coming back from Hong Kong. There were quite a few coughing people in the airport and on the plane. It started with a sore throat, moved to a crushing headache and tiredness, and is now in the final stage (I hope) with a phlegmy cough.

    The ongoing headaches are the worst part, making it hard to do anything that involves looking at screens, so I’ve had to listen to podcasts to pass time outside of trying to sleep, which incidentally has been one fever dream after another soundtracked by the latest Kendrick Lamar songs. I dreamt of eating fried rice at New Ho King. My brain won’t shut up and keeps playing the BBL Drizzy refrain on repeat.

    I surprisingly made it through a three-hour episode of the Accidental Tech Podcast talking about the new iPads, which I would normally never have the patience for. I think I learnt just one new thing: the 256GB version of the iPad Pro has only a single RAM bank, resulting in slower performance compared to the other models. Three hours is pushing it for me, I think an hour is an ideal length for a regular podcast. But I’m really impressed they’ve kept the show going for so long. Editing it weekly must be a bitch.

    I also mostly enjoyed an episode of a show I’d never heard before, Normal Gossip, which tells/stretches out banal real-life stories submitted by listeners. It was an episode about “the joy of being a hater” which obviously spoke to me. And in the spirit of hating, I need to say that I find the host annoyingly chirpy and fake, but she was offset by the dour and acerbic guest she happened to have this week. At times the storytelling and incredulous laughing of the listener felt a bit like Reply All, which I used to enjoy when I listened to podcasts more.

    A better thing I brought home from Hong Kong was a brand new PS5 of the Slim variety! When the original PS5 came out, I was disgusted by its form factor and massive footprint. It was more like a PC that went under your desk than a console that sat on your, er, TV console. So I’ve been waiting patiently for years with my PS4 Pro (barely touching it in favor of the Switch tbh), for the inevitable slimmer and smaller edition to be announced. Which happened earlier this year.

    It retails for about S$650 here on average, so I hadn’t rushed out to get one given my deep Switch backlog — a whole other platform of games wasn’t exactly urgent. But on our last morning in Causeway Bay, we stopped by the Times Square mall and found that they go for about S$520 in Hong Kong. Wtf?! It was an instabuy followed by a brisk walk back to the hotel to repack our luggage.

    Our new Sony TV automatically detects the PS5 and configures itself to work with it, which is nice! It also supports all the fancy stuff like 120hz variable refresh rate, but the games I’ve got to play first are kinda last-gen ones that have been ported with some PS5 support: Lost Judgment and Like A Dragon 7, both from the series formerly known as Yakuza in the West.

    The best feature of the PS5 so far? Incredibly quick loading times, nearly instantaneous, such that moving from one area to another in Lost Judgment doesn’t break the immersion like it would when I played it on PS4. With a single “Resume” command from the system’s Home Screen, you can even cold start up a game, load the last save, and get back to it in under 10 seconds. Compare this to last-gen consoles where you’d have to do all that manually, waiting, pressing buttons, and waiting some more — probably for up to a minute.

    You can tell the Panadol has shut my headache down now because I’m rambling far more than I thought I would. This was supposed to be a quick two-paragraph update! See you next time.

  • Week 18.24

    Week 18.24

    Last week marked the 200th installment of a blogging rhythm I wasn’t sure I could keep up for a year, let alone nearly four. I thank any readers I have, the makers of iA Writer, WordPress, and of course, my wife for graciously giving me space on Sunday mornings to engage in this act of reflection and blabbering.

    Except I’m not writing this on Sunday, no it’s currently Thursday and I’m getting a head start with some structure because we’ll be in Hong Kong for the weekend. It was a last-minute idea, driven by a primal craving for Chinese roast goose, a desire to escape the summer heatwave currently roasting all of SE Asia, and the realization that we won’t have a pocket of clear calendar space like this again for several months.

    I haven’t been back in the territory since May 2019, and so much has obviously happened since. Did you know that this very site was once blocked by the great Chinese firewall? I have no idea why, but I hope I don’t find myself unwelcome upon arrival. Anecdotally, I’ve heard the city doesn’t quite feel the same these days, and we’ve seen the numerous ChannelNewsAsia documentary features about people looking for fresh starts, emigrating to the UK and so on. But as an infrequent visitor with only superficial interactions to speak of, I don’t expect to sense any changes at all.

    What’s changed is that while I used to be excited about Hong Kong’s lack of sales tax and abundance of electronics and camera emporiums, not to mention official Apple Stores, those things are less interesting these days. I’ve got nothing on my shopping list (plus I’m in low-cost mode — see previous entries), I’m content with snapping photos on my iPhone and Ricoh GR III, and Singapore has so many Apple Stores these days I’ve started taking them for granted.

    (CW: some camera nerdery ahead)

    I am looking forward to photographing the city a little with Dmitri Novikov’s new camera app, Zerocam (in beta). The concept is an extremely simplified camera with one button; there’s not even a way to quickly look at the last photo you took. When you hit the shutter, a RAW image is captured with as little of the iPhone’s intelligent processing as possible, plus some specific settings that Novikov prefers (-0.5ev and some very light touch color grading, as far as I can tell), and then saved directly to a HEIF file.

    Unfortunately it only gives you photos at 12mp size, probably because third-party apps don’t have the option of 24mp and 24mp is a result of the computational photography processes that Zerocam avoids anyway. And while you can use Halide to capture similarly unprocessed photos (turn off “Enable Smartest Processing” in its settings), you can’t make it remember a lowered exposure setting between sessions.

    The intermediate solution I’ve landed on to retain 24mp files while getting better everyday photos is to set Apple’s stock camera app to remember a -0.7ev exposure, and tune Photographic Styles to -20 Tone and -7 Warmth. I really like the look of this “recipe” on iPhone 15, and it’s kinda like shooting with Highlight Priority exposure and the Negative Film effect on a Ricoh GR III (which I’ll also be doing).

    Actually in HK now:

    We’ve chosen a wet and gloomy weekend to stop by. Our flight was delayed by 2.5 hours, I suspect because of turbulent conditions at HK International Airport around our original arrival time. Just two days earlier, some Cathay Pacific passengers were tossed around and couldn’t land for six hours, with the descriptions of a vomit and scream-filled cabin in the news fulfilling the conditions of a personal nightmare.

    I take back a little of what I said — things do feel somewhat different. The city is grubbier than I remember; prices are higher and some people must be struggling to get by (well, HK isn’t alone in this); and there’s a hint of economic decline in the many empty shop units with ‘For Lease’ signs up.

    One tool that’s been super helpful all week has been the Arc Search app on iOS, which added a voice mode that you can assign to the Action Button on iPhone 15 Pros. When the app launched with an AI feature that summarizes search queries on custom-generated webpages, I was wary of this “browser that browses for you” concept, which gives users few reasons to visit the underlying pages being mined (thereby ruining the web), but maybe they’ve made some changes since. It’s easier to click through to the sources.

    I’ve been using it to answer questions like “what interesting art exhibitions are on in HK right now?” and it performs some light research, and I do end up visiting the linked websites for further details like location and pricing. It’s effectively a better way to present search results (albeit with the same bias and ranking concerns as search results). I hope iOS 18’s AI overhaul will see similar utility coming to Siri and Safari. Perhaps this is where the rumored Gemini partnership with Google comes in.

    ===

    Media activity:

    • I started on a new Jack Reacher book: Night School. It’s what I do when I can’t decide what to read next.
    • I’ve been watching the new-ish MF Ghost anime, which is a sort of sequel to Initial D. Some people seem to think it’s an insult to the original show, but I wouldn’t know — I might watch it after this? It’s got a funny premise: in a future Japan, electric vehicles are the norm and gas-powered cars are only allowed in a special racing tournament called MFG. But drifting has become a lost art! Enter Kanata Rivington, a hafu born in England who trained under a master who I presume is the main protagonist of Initial D, returning to Japan for the first time to find his lost father and school a nation on how to burn rubber while chucking a uey.
    • The Japanese saxophonist Sadao Watanabe is back with a new album at the insane age of 91. It’s called Peace, and I’m digging it. Speaking of, I first heard him as a child digging through my dad’s music collection.
    • I’m also loving Tigers Blood, by Waxahatchee, which I discovered on Pitchfork’s list of The Best Music of 2024 So Far. I’m aware that Anna Wintour fired a bunch of people from Pitchfork and it’s supposedly not the site it used to be, but this is a great pick. They say: “Recommended if you like — Indie-country; Sheryl Crow; Gillian Welch; that Brad Cook Sound; MJ Lenderman showing up; catchin’ skinks down by the creek; ice cream stand off the highway; letting your legs dangle off a pier”.
    • What a week in rap battle history! The beef between Drake and Kendrick Lamar has been giving us explosive drama and incredible diss tracks, sometimes more than one a day, and Kendrick’s the winner in my book but honestly I’m afraid just watching it unfold. It feels like someone’s going to get shot or jailed as a result of this.

    Oh one more thing! The Cannes Lions Festival announced the shortlisting juries for 2024’s awards, and I’m pleased to share that I’m on the panel for the Brand Experience & Activation Lions. That should keep me occupied for the next few weeks.

  • Week 12.24

    Week 12.24

    If you’re reading this on the web, you might notice that this site is now running WordPress’s new ‘Twenty Twenty Four’ theme, with a more traditional blog-like homepage (it has a sidebar) linking to single-column post pages. Navigation remains unchanged, but typography and minor details are improved.

    I’m happier with this than I was with the blocky grid of last year’s ‘Twenty Twenty Three’ theme, because this comes with the freedom to put up shorter posts without Titles or Featured Images. Over the years I’ve gone back and forth on microblogging here, or having all tweets mirrored here, but it’s never stuck. But at least I have the option again, especially since I haven’t properly posted on Twitter in a year and most people I want to follow are still scattered across Threads, Bluesky, Nostr, and Mastodon.

    ===

    We celebrated a little life milestone this week with a nature walk, a “Gold Class” viewing of Dune Part Two, a nice bottle of French Malbec, and a perfect Canadian pork chop with a side of the butteriest mashed potatoes. A mix of simple and simpler pleasures.

    I’ll expand: We were recently in New Zealand, and took a couple of walks in nature reserves. I’ve never bothered to attempt the same in Singapore because it’s ridiculously hot, but visiting the Rifle Range Nature Park in West Singapore was interesting for the stark contrast offered versus our recent experiences. Every step on its paths is sure footed by design; suspended walkways take you through the forest without trampling plants, and they’re so convenient all the monkeys we saw were using them as well, rather than walking in the dirt. You get the sense that everything is regularly inspected and all dangers have been scrubbed. It reflects the usual criticism of Singapore being a theme park, which is only a problem because living in a safe environment breeds complacency. At several points on the easiest routes at Te Mata Park in New Zealand, slipping off a path and tumbling into a ravine was a genuine possibility. I wonder what other metaphorical tumbles Singaporean life has not prepared me for.

    The new Dune is as superb as all reviews have indicated, and I could not imagine rating it any less than 5 stars in Letterboxd. The art direction and photography are flawless, and it looks twice as expensive as it is. Never once while watching did my brain check out and think, “oh, that’s CGI”. The only change I would dare suggest is Austin Butler’s casting, as he’s not anywhere as menacing as the movie treats him. His character is already a nepo baby who just enjoys killing defenseless slaves and servants, and Butler didn’t bring the presence to suggest he’s also one of the most dangerous people in a universe full of freaks.

    Another 5-star film for us this week was Wim Wenders’s Perfect Days (2023), which won a Best Actor award at Cannes last year for Koji Yakusho’s nearly wordless performance. I enjoyed it tremendously as a loving tribute to the city of Tokyo and its toilets (really), a meditation on repetition and routine, an ode to proud and purposeful work, and a parable about how avoiding the messiness of life might obscure living itself. The soundtrack is a Gen X dream. Visually, it’s filled with beautiful everyday moments so mundane as to be overlooked by most of us going about our daily busyness. The way all its themes and music choices come together in the film’s final minutes is worth half a star alone.

    Continuing the theme of Japanese films about appreciating life, we watched Living (2022), the transposed-to-England remake of Kurosawa’s Ikiru (1952). I’ve never seen the original, but it’s now high on my list. Bill Nighy is fantastic in the role of a civil servant who learns he’s dying and wonders what it’s all about, and plays his deconstruction with impressive vulnerability. I looked at the trailer for Ikiru afterwards, and while Takashi Shimura’s performance in the same role is regarded as iconic, it was a little theatrical and may not have aged as well.

    Anyhow, the message in both these films is timeless: stop working so hard at meaningless things, smell the roses (or watch the shadows cast by leaves — ‘komorebi’ in Japanese, as the end credits of Perfect Days tells us), and make a difference to another human being’s life.

    Take a little forest bathing break with this video I captured.

    ===

    Additional media activity:

    • We finished Season 1 of Below Deck Down Under at last, and I was glad to learn that Captain Jason and Chief Stew Aesha return for Season 2, which we now must see. The leadership and teamwork these two have put Captain Lee and Kate of the mainline series to bottomless shame.
    • The new Call of Duty mobile version of Warzone has finally come out, after being delayed for about a year. As a somewhat devoted player of the original Call of Duty Mobile title, I’ve been waiting with very high expectations for this. Unfortunately, the launch has been a bit of a dud, with many complaints from the worldwide community. For one, Android devices seem incapable of running it well. On my iPhone 15 Pro Max, it runs at peak performance and the graphics are truly console quality; I was running around maps that I knew instinctively, but my brain was exploding from how different and detailed everything looked. Sadly, the phone runs hot and it drained the better part of my battery in maybe an hour. I’ll wait to see if they improve anything before calling it quits.
    • The new Kacey Musgraves album, Deeper Well, is not bad at all. It even has a song called Anime Eyes which drops a line about a “Miyazaki sky”. Very weird times we live in.
    • I started using a new social app that tries to be a Letterboxd for music: Musicboard. Unfortunately, it doesn’t automatically log/scrobble your listening activity, so rating music and broadcasting your taste is a manual affair. You also can’t start playing an album directly in Apple Music from within the app — it only supports Spotify at the moment.

  • Week 10.24

    Week 10.24

    Last week, I mused on the need for Super Deluxe reissues of Counting Crows’ albums, only to discover that August and Everything After had already received such an edition, with a Dolby Atmos mix, and it was already in my library. Now please do Recovering the Satellites!

    Staying on the subject of music, while watching an episode of True Detective one night, there was a scene where someone flipped through a stack of vinyls in their living room and took one out to play, at which point I paused the show to ask aloud, “why isn’t there an iPad app that will replicate that experience?” I’ve been wanting this for a while, and so this was not a new exclamation. Streaming services are great and all, but I remember the days of having cassettes and CDs, and how the tactile, spatial ritual of flipping through them, selecting one, and loading it into a player was more satisfying than typing into a search field and hitting Enter.

    The app I want would mimic this by letting me set aside a small subset of albums from my larger Apple Music library and display them on a virtual shelf with large cover art, and I would put this on an iPad positioned near our HomePod. The key is this smaller stack of “heavy rotation” picks or favorite classic albums, so I can stand there and choose something to put on in the living room. Bonus points for skeuomorphism: dragging a metaphorical disc onto a spindle would be nice. Apple is rumored to be working on an iPad dock that is also a HomePod, or a HomePod with a screen, much like less audio-centric models already offered by Amazon and Google, but I fear today’s designers will go for direct over delightful.

    If this idea doesn’t resonate with you at all, it’s okay; I think it’s just a specific millennial/xennial urge to respect and protect the album format. I enjoy singles, YouTube-only bootlegs, and melodic fragments on TikTok just as much as the zoomers, but I’ll listen to whole albums till I die. A great album takes advantage of the larger canvas to explore ambitious concepts or stories. It’s the difference between an article and a zine.

    I decided to look through the App Store again, and found that two apps I already had on my iPhone could potentially do the job: Albums: Music Shortcuts, and Longplay. I also found one called Albums – album focused player, but I decided to go with the ones I had. After some tests, I found that a recent 2.0 update to Longplay (which I’d bought long ago but ended up never really using) added support for custom “collections”, which lets me set up this smaller shelf of select LPs, because its default mode is to show all of your albums. And it syncs over iCloud, so I can update my choices at any time from any device. Longplay’s website is here.

    Dusting off my neglected first-gen 12.9” iPad Pro for the purpose, I now have this set up going and it’s… not bad. Longplay’s interface isn’t exactly what I envisioned, and I’d like it to remember that I always want to play out of the same HomePod, but it works for now. The aging (aged?) A9X chip struggles a little to scroll smoothly and filter my huge library in real time, but I was amazed to find that it supports iPadOS 16 — i.e. last year’s OS works on an 8-year old tablet.

    I still remember the launch of this iPad Pro because I was in Tokyo on holiday at the time, and was suffering a bout of ankle pain for a day or two. On November 12, 2015, the morning of the iPad’s launch, I hobbled down to the Ginza Apple Store near where I was staying, and the excitement in the room was incredible. There was a calligraphy demonstration using the new Apple Pencil and a Japanese painting app. Nerds young and old jostled to pick it up. The sheer size of it seemed audacious and unreal compared to the 9.7” iPads we’d been used to.

    Seeing it held in the hands like a magazine, with an insane Retina resolution that surpassed any laptop of that time, the potential for it to be a replacement for printed materials struck me more than ever. This was back when everyone thought the iPad would be a great platform for publishing, and almost every large company spent millions trying to design the right UX and business model for digital versions of Wired, The Economist, Vogue, or what have you. But they were often bloated, difficult to navigate, and often a worse reading experience than paper. I have some ideas on why this didn’t work out, but anyway now we’re just back to good ol’ PDFs and websites.

    I walked out in the cold air thinking, “Well, that was cool, but I’m not going to buy one.” I struggled down the road and sat down for a coffee in the now-closed Monocle Cafe in the Yurakucho Hankyu Men’s department store, followed by lunch at Sushizanmai, and I must have thought it over and changed my mind (surprise), because by 11 PM that night I was taking photos of my new iPad Pro back in the hotel room.

    Did I ever make full use of it? I remember the Apple-centric analyst Horace Dediu reviewing it as a new kind of ‘desktop computer’, owing to its power and reduced portability. I never really brought it to work and used it as a note-taking surface like I imagined. In fact, I never bought another 12.9″ iPad Pro again, always opting for the smaller version whenever I upgraded. For a number of years this one served as our bedroom TV (really a bed TV because that’s how we used it: propped up on some blankets), until it became prone to shutting down abruptly as the battery gave out. It gives me joy to see it finding a new purpose in the home as a hi-fi system.

    ===

    Media activity:

    • As mentioned, we’ve been watching the new True Detective and I agree with the internet that its tone and storyline are a very odd fit for the anthology series, and I’m not sure it really belongs. Supposedly it was pitched to HBO as a new original mystery show, but they asked for it to be changed so it could be a new season of TD. What a weird decision: it felt like supernatural survival horror at times. It was mostly good to see Jodie Foster at work.
    • Fiona Apple is back! Sort of. She features in a song with Iron & Wine called All in Good Time, from their upcoming album, Light Verse. You can listen to it now, though.
    • The new Bleachers is finally out too, and I’ve heard it through once on headphones but wasn’t super in love with it. Will have to give it more time.
    • Jack Antonoff (and Taylor Swift, who is performing her final shows here this weekend) appear in this wonderful portrait of Michael Stipe in the New York Times a few months ago that I only discovered now. R.E.M. was hands-down my favorite band as a teenager, and I loved learning about what he’s been up to, and how our idols in their old age can be such weird, vulnerable, out-of-touch, sincere human beings who are still discovering themselves, still figuring out how to live, struggling to do the work that matters. Here’s a gift link to the article.
    • The new TV adapation of Shogun has been getting so much buzz, and I have fond (if blurry) memories of the 1980 miniseries starring Richard Chamberlain, which must have aired as reruns when I was a kid, so I’ve been excited for it. Episode 1 did not disappoint; it looks like a big budget film and has non-histrionic performances from its Japanese cast. Do you think someone tells them to tone it down when they work on American productions? Because most Japanese dramas I watch are so over-the-top as to puncture the fourth wall like a gaijin’s arm through a shogi door.
    • We still haven’t seen Dune Part II, but decided to watch a 20-min recap on YouTube instead of sitting through the first movie again in preparation. I must be a terrible media reader because I swear I didn’t make sense of Paul’s visions the way I was meant to. I just recall it was the first time I’d been in a theater in nearly two years, just as Covid was unwinding, and being swept up in the sheer visual experience of seeing the world in motion. Because Dune was always more about Westwood Studios’ real-time strategy game on PC to me than the book, David Lynch film, or Syfy series, it’s Arrakis itself and the houses at war that I feel nostalgia for.

  • Week 8.24

    Week 8.24

    We spent the last three days of our road trip in Auckland, returning the car to a desolate parking garage and then ordering an Uber from the side of the road with our luggage. When we got in, the driver confirmed “So you’re checking in to the Hilton? Not impressed with the parking lot?” which was low-key one of the best jokes that week.

    I already mentioned eating many burgers, but from our brief tour of restaurants across the North Island, it really seemed like New Zealand cuisine is made up of steaks, brisket, pork belly, oysters, fish and chips, and lamb chops. The renowned local beef is as amazing as you’d expect. As a tourist, this is nothing to complain about, but I’m certain I’d find the narrow range a little tiring if I lived there.

    There are local beers and many craft beers, but Heineken is held in strangely high regard; maybe a result of its relatively high price as an imported product. In Singapore, I’d say it’s on the second rung from the bottom above Tiger and Carlsberg for many people, a slightly better lager for not much more money. Anyway, the wine game is so strong it’s a wonder anyone drinks beer there (we did, though).

    I think Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings films put New Zealand on the map more than anything else in the past century, but we passed on visiting the Hobbiton film set as neither of us are really fans — I sometimes explain that I hate fantasy settings because there’s no electricity and it’s just filthy people sitting around fires — but it wouldn’t be right to go all the way to NZ and not at least touch that iconic surface.

    So we booked a Weta Workshop tour in Auckland, which turned out to be part-theme park, part-showcase and gift shop. They’ve structured an experience around three fictional films their team supposedly worked on but didn’t get released, which provides a narrative device to show off their craft in conceptual world building, model making, special effects make up, and cinematography. It is not dissimilar to making a video game! You come up with the setting, the rules of the world, character designs, then get sculpting.

    Did you know? Weta worked on the Ghost in the Shell live-action film, making Scarlett Johansson’s silicone suit and other cyborg designs.

    Another highlight of our time there was a “Maori cultural experience” at the Auckland Museum and War Memorial, in which photos were allowed but discouraged, and so I don’t have any to share. There are several opportunities for tourists to see and engage with Maori culture, but when we looked at Tripadvisor reviews, it seemed like some are really commercialized dog and pony shows amounting to little more than cosplay theater, and we weren’t really keen on that.

    In contrast, the museum’s program is a 30-minute demonstration and explanation of some select rituals (which we would call “songs” or “dances”, but are really social instruments for building community, passing down knowledge, and so on) by a talented group of Maori people who apparently manage to hold day jobs in science and education on top of this. On top of preserving their ways, a focus of this experience was showing people from other cultures how easily histories like theirs are colonized and reduced. For example, clapping was not encouraged, because it turns their sharing into a performance, and simply because they don’t clap in their culture. I gave myself points for feeling icky about all the people fresh off their cruise ships clapping at the start, way before they were informed of this.

    I promised to share the AI-assisted itinerary of our trip, so here it is.

    The route we planned in Apple Freeform

    Day 1: Auckland to Wellington

    • Arrive in Auckland and catch a domestic flight to Wellington.
    • Evening in Wellington: Walk along the waterfront, find some dinner.

    Day 2: Wellington

    • Visit Te Papa Tongarewa Museum for an insight into New Zealand’s history and culture.
    • Take the cable car to the Botanic Garden for city views.
    • Evening: Explore Cuba Street for its vibrant nightlife and culinary scene.
    • What we really did: Had cocktails at Elixir and dinner near the hotel.

    Day 3: Wellington to Martinborough (1.5 hour drive)

    Day 4: Martinborough to Havelock (3 hours drive)

    • Breakfast at one of the cafes in town
    • Depart Martinborough, taking State Highway 2.
    • Stop in the town of Masterton and visit the Awatoi art and history museum (this was an unplanned stop after we saw a billboard by the highway)
    • Stop at Pukaha National Wildlife Centre.
    • Dinner in Havelock North: there are some nice restaurants in the town center
    • Stay in Havelock North

    Day 5: Havelock and Napier

    • Walk/hike in Te Mata Park and drive to the peak.
    • Head into Napier for lunch at a vineyard: We had bookings for lunch and a tour at Church Road Winery.
    • Local seafood dinner in Napier (as mentioned last week, we chanced upon the annual Art Deco Festival).

    Day 6: Napier to Rotorua (3 hours drive)

    • Depart Napier for Rotorua
    • Stop in Taupo for lunch by the lake
    • Parasailing over Lake Taupo in the mid-afternoon -_-
    • Stop at Huka Falls
    • Continue to Rotorua (another hour, so you’ll arrive in the early evening)

    Day 7: Rotorua to Auckland (3 hour drive)

    • Drive to Whangamata
    • Stop at The Cider Factorie along the way for lunch (this was an unplanned stop but was great)
    • Stop at Hunua Falls
    • Arrive in Auckland in the evening, return car
    • Dinner along Princes Wharf

    Day 8: Auckland

    • Visit Weta Workshop for a tour
    • Go up the Sky Tower for panoramic city views (we got a combo Weta + Sky Tower ticket online)
    • Lose some money in the Sky City casino
    • Beer, wine, dinner

    Day 9: Auckland

    • Visit the Auckland War Memorial Museum for Maori and Pacific Islander artifacts. The Maori Cultural Experience (twice a day, book ahead) is highly recommended.
    • Shopping downtown
      OR
    • Full day: Take a ferry to Waiheke Island for more vineyards, beaches, and hiking trails.

    Day 10: Depart

    ===

    As always, returning to Singapore’s heat after a little time in a temperate climate was brutal. It’s one of the main reasons I would entertain the idea of moving away or owning a second property somewhere. It’s often said that a little sunshine and walking does wonders for your mood and helps people with depression, and I really did feel a lot less weight on me coming back with a watch tan after 10 days, but this weather is not made for walking. And so I expect this feeling will fade with the tan.

    Since coming back, we finished Season 7 of Below Deck, and I’ve just gone totally off Captain Lee and Kate now, formerly the least-bad people in that toxic stew of management hell/training that I’ve recommended people watch the show for in the past. We’ve now started on Below Deck Down Under, and the Australian captain there is a breath of fresh air. Where Captain Lee stayed in his bridge oblivious to the crew’s troubles with bullying and insubordination, this one is hands-on, leads by example, and even joins them for dinner (but wisely not clubbing) on the first night out. You already know he sees what’s going on, who doesn’t pull their weight, and knows how to address it. To top it all off, he’s hot and the interior girls can’t stop looking at him.

  • Week 7.24

    Week 7.24

    We landed in Auckland, New Zealand Monday morning and immediately flew down to Wellington, and we’ve been driving our way back north for the past few days. I’m currently writing this while sitting beside a Buddha’s head in a poolside garden, in a small new hotel outside of Rotorua.

    Four hours ago, I was parasailing above Lake Taupō in my usual urban uniform of jeans and a t-shirt — if you know me, you’ll know that I don’t sign up for even remotely dangerous things, especially over large bodies of water; in the cringey words of Below Deck repeat charter guest, Dean Slover, I said “homie don’t play that!” But Kim convinced me to, and we survived. They played Maroon 5 songs on the boat going out, and so by the time we were lifted some 50 meters in the air to float in blissful silence high above the town, I was having a good time. Lake Taupō is a volcanic caldera that’s nearly the same size as Singapore, but because it’s all flat you can just about see from one end to the other from up there. New Zealand challenges the city dweller’s sense of scale like all good nature vacations.

    Since leaving Wellington, the road trip portion of the trip so far has been mostly measured in burgers, fish and chips, and winery stops, specifically in the Martinborough and Hawke’s Bay areas where the tastings have been revealing of each company’s nature: some overly commercial and strictly scripted, versus others more informal, just going on vibes the only way they know. I think the difference shows up in the wine, with wineries in the latter category being more playful with flavor, more likely to put better stuff in a low-priced lineup. But I would say that, as someone who’s now had a crash course in holding up his glass against the light to observe the color.

    I’m now lying in bed on Sunday evening having just finished the last leg of our driving tour, which took us to the famous Whangamata Beach bordering the Bay of Plenty, and Hunua Falls, where we did another little nature walk and met a nice dog and helped its owners get a photo together with their iPad. Old people really carry full-sized iPads around on hikes to use as large-screened cameras. Mind blown.

    A couple of observations on this road trip. So much roadkill! Easily a hundred little bundles of fur spotted spread across tarmac just today alone. Some decayed and washed away, little more than stains. Some still fresh, bloating, bleeding. We avoided making contact with all but a couple. A ritual evolved, mainly to stay alert but also out of pity for these bunnies or squirrels(?): upon spotting one, I would put my palms together and say “rest in peace”, and Kim would follow with “in all your pieces”.

    FM radio is still not a great experience; it’s a wonder how people survived on it for so long. Fortunately I had a lot of downloaded music on my iPhone, which also navigated us with offline maps. CarPlay is excellent, and Apple Maps was good enough for nearly every leg of the journey. We listened to Lorde’s albums, of course, as well as the Sunkissed Summer playlist she compiled on Apple Music, and other New Zealand legends like Bic Runga and Crowded House. At one point I put on some J Dilla but learnt that rhythmic music you can sort of nod and zone out to is NOT what a driver wants over long winding roads.

    As I mentioned last week, this itinerary was drawn up with ChatGPT and my custom GPT, AI-tinerary, but we had to fact-check everything and plot the route on a map before making bookings. It’s held up well so far, with a couple of impromptu detours and chance discoveries along the way. For one, we did not realize that while passing through Napier for one night that we’d be there for the Art Deco-obsessed city’s annual Art Deco Festival, the first one they’ve been able to hold since 2020. Vintage cars were out in force, there was a Warbirds air show, and a free concert on the beach. It was packed, every restaurant was booked out. We ended up eating dinner out of a food truck by the sea. I asked ChatGPT “what’s happening in Napier tonight?” and it confidently replied, “I couldn’t find any events tonight.” At the risk of sounding like a broken record, these tools truly are starting points and aids right now, and you must resist the idea that they are final answers.

    I’ll post the final version of our itinerary next week when we’re done, in case it helps anyone looking to do the same.

    All photos were taken by either a Ricoh GR III or iPhone 15 Pro Max. The extra 120mm equivalent reach of the iPhone came in very handy, but there’s no beating the image quality of the GR when it comes to landscapes. The light was so good that some photos taken with the Standard color profile, straight to JPEG, were surprisingly “finished” out of the camera. This year’s iPhone still wants to make everything bright and sharp, which fails to capture atmosphere and preserve highlights. I edited photos daily as quickly and lazily as possible, using RNI Films for most of it — at some point they added the ability to save edits on top of original files (non-destructively), which is a key consideration I look for in photo apps. I’ve also started using RAW Power again late in the trip, which is making me want to go back and redo some edits. Maybe on the flight home.

  • Week 6.24

    Week 6.24

    It was Chinese New Year week and it’s not been the same for several years, partly because of Covid and because many key relations have simply gotten old. My uncles and aunties, for decades only known to me by honorary titles describing their places in the family hierarchy, are getting ill, weak, and unwilling to leave their homes or receive visitors. Several years ago I started to ask what their actual names were, because I grew up literally calling them names that translated to second son of third uncle, or eldest paternal uncle; I’ve often wondered why Chinese culture has mechanisms that foster emotional distance between children and adults, a tradition that feels increasingly out of touch with today’s world. But that’s how it goes.

    I remember the typical CNY reunion dinner for many years as something to get through with gritted teeth and withheld snarky jokes, and if you’d told me then that I would look back now on those as the good times, I would have despaired. Now they appear as charmingly awkward and well-meaning attempts to bond, by people I might never get to wish a happy new year to again. I always thought the idea of an annual reunion made more sense against the backdrop of a vast country like China, but now that it’s hard to connect for all sorts of reasons even across our tiny one, I see the real terrain is time and memory, and so many relationships die starving in those fields. That’s how it goes too.

    ===

    One of our friends lost his dad this week. He was by all accounts the kind of guy you call a ‘real character’. He went from a corporate career to a becoming writer in retirement, putting out three books in the last decade or so. Because we didn’t have any reunion dinner commitments at the usual time, we were able to attend his funeral wake and share in some lovely stories from the family. They managed the joke that this terrible timing right in the middle of festivities was the last prank he’d play on them. I learnt he had a regular blog, which he kept going even after suffering health setbacks — that’s dedication. Every week I wonder what I’m going to say here and always think the streak’s about to end.

    Even the funeral was remarkable for the fact that he planned it all himself, leaving behind detailed instructions on what he wanted, to the point of getting his own headshot taken and sealed in an envelope which his family only opened after he was gone, so they wouldn’t have to fuss over this stuff at the worst time — that’s love. It got me thinking that everyone should prepare their own playlists and slideshows too. I might get started on it this year. Don’t be surprised if you come to my funeral and hear that Chinese AI dub of Van Morrison on repeat.

    ===

    Other activity:

    • I’ve started on a new book and only read two short chapters but I already know this is something special. It’s People Collide by Isle McElroy.
    • We are back watching Below Deck and I’m still sure that this is one of the best management trainings you can get for your time. Every single season is full of unnecessary crew drama because people don’t communicate expectations, don’t provide clear feedback, and allow emotional reactions to escalate. I get that it’s not easy, and I’m not sure I do it so well myself, but the lines between action and consequence are so clear here; they’re literally edited together for entertainment. Another lesson: everyone is flawed. The people you root for because they’re usually sensible? Sometimes they fuck up! Working relationships are rarely black and white.
    • Kanye West finally released Vultures two months its initial release date, with a new cover and possibly a different tracklist. I haven’t heard it yet. But once again, Apple Music has not recommended me music I’m interested in, although I’m quasi-certain it will be featured somewhere in the app in the next few days. Right now the Singapore ‘Browse’ page is full of Chinese New Year related music that I definitely do not care about.
    • After working too hard and not getting enough rest, Kim’s sort of fallen ill now, with me feeling a milder version of it. The timing could not be worse: we’re off on holiday soon, the kind where sneezing and aching and feeling weak might derail a complex itinerary.
    • Speaking of which, I used ChatGPT to help plan this vacation, and I’ve taken those instructions and made a custom GPT called AI-tinerary which might help you if you’re going someplace new and want to create a multi-day schedule of things to do. It can work off your individual interests and transport modes, as well as answer other travel-related questions you may have. At some point I’ll be able to make it plot your route on a map (if you ask it now, it’ll generate some wacky DALL•E map drawing that you should absolutely NOT follow).
    • You should know by next weekend whether these AI-generated plans worked out, or if we tried to stay in towns that don’t actually exist.