We spent the last three days of our road trip in Auckland, returning the car to a desolate parking garage and then ordering an Uber from the side of the road with our luggage. When we got in, the driver confirmed “So you’re checking in to the Hilton? Not impressed with the parking lot?” which was low-key one of the best jokes that week.
I already mentioned eating many burgers, but from our brief tour of restaurants across the North Island, it really seemed like New Zealand cuisine is made up of steaks, brisket, pork belly, oysters, fish and chips, and lamb chops. The renowned local beef is as amazing as you’d expect. As a tourist, this is nothing to complain about, but I’m certain I’d find the narrow range a little tiring if I lived there.
There are local beers and many craft beers, but Heineken is held in strangely high regard; maybe a result of its relatively high price as an imported product. In Singapore, I’d say it’s on the second rung from the bottom above Tiger and Carlsberg for many people, a slightly better lager for not much more money. Anyway, the wine game is so strong it’s a wonder anyone drinks beer there (we did, though).
I think Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings films put New Zealand on the map more than anything else in the past century, but we passed on visiting the Hobbiton film set as neither of us are really fans — I sometimes explain that I hate fantasy settings because there’s no electricity and it’s just filthy people sitting around fires — but it wouldn’t be right to go all the way to NZ and not at least touch that iconic surface.
So we booked a Weta Workshop tour in Auckland, which turned out to be part-theme park, part-showcase and gift shop. They’ve structured an experience around three fictional films their team supposedly worked on but didn’t get released, which provides a narrative device to show off their craft in conceptual world building, model making, special effects make up, and cinematography. It is not dissimilar to making a video game! You come up with the setting, the rules of the world, character designs, then get sculpting.
Did you know? Weta worked on the Ghost in the Shell live-action film, making Scarlett Johansson’s silicone suit and other cyborg designs.

Another highlight of our time there was a “Maori cultural experience” at the Auckland Museum and War Memorial, in which photos were allowed but discouraged, and so I don’t have any to share. There are several opportunities for tourists to see and engage with Maori culture, but when we looked at Tripadvisor reviews, it seemed like some are really commercialized dog and pony shows amounting to little more than cosplay theater, and we weren’t really keen on that.
In contrast, the museum’s program is a 30-minute demonstration and explanation of some select rituals (which we would call “songs” or “dances”, but are really social instruments for building community, passing down knowledge, and so on) by a talented group of Maori people who apparently manage to hold day jobs in science and education on top of this. On top of preserving their ways, a focus of this experience was showing people from other cultures how easily histories like theirs are colonized and reduced. For example, clapping was not encouraged, because it turns their sharing into a performance, and simply because they don’t clap in their culture. I gave myself points for feeling icky about all the people fresh off their cruise ships clapping at the start, way before they were informed of this.
I promised to share the AI-assisted itinerary of our trip, so here it is.

Day 1: Auckland to Wellington
- Arrive in Auckland and catch a domestic flight to Wellington.
- Evening in Wellington: Walk along the waterfront, find some dinner.
Day 2: Wellington
- Visit Te Papa Tongarewa Museum for an insight into New Zealand’s history and culture.
- Take the cable car to the Botanic Garden for city views.
- Evening: Explore Cuba Street for its vibrant nightlife and culinary scene.
- What we really did: Had cocktails at Elixir and dinner near the hotel.
Day 3: Wellington to Martinborough (1.5 hour drive)
- Breakfast at a nearby cafe (Swimsuit)
- Pick up rental car
- Noon: Drive to Martinborough for lunch
- Stop at Remutaka Lookout (we attempted a short hike here)
- Visit vineyards around the city for lunch and tastings (bookings recommended): We enjoyed Poppies and Cambridge Road
- Dinner and stay in town: I chose The Martinborough Hotel and recommend it along with their Union Square restaurant
Day 4: Martinborough to Havelock (3 hours drive)
- Breakfast at one of the cafes in town
- Depart Martinborough, taking State Highway 2.
- Stop in the town of Masterton and visit the Awatoi art and history museum (this was an unplanned stop after we saw a billboard by the highway)
- Stop at Pukaha National Wildlife Centre.
- Dinner in Havelock North: there are some nice restaurants in the town center
- Stay in Havelock North
Day 5: Havelock and Napier
- Walk/hike in Te Mata Park and drive to the peak.
- Head into Napier for lunch at a vineyard: We had bookings for lunch and a tour at Church Road Winery.
- Local seafood dinner in Napier (as mentioned last week, we chanced upon the annual Art Deco Festival).
Day 6: Napier to Rotorua (3 hours drive)
- Depart Napier for Rotorua
- Stop in Taupo for lunch by the lake
- Parasailing over Lake Taupo in the mid-afternoon -_-
- Stop at Huka Falls
- Continue to Rotorua (another hour, so you’ll arrive in the early evening)
Day 7: Rotorua to Auckland (3 hour drive)
- Drive to Whangamata
- Stop at The Cider Factorie along the way for lunch (this was an unplanned stop but was great)
- Stop at Hunua Falls
- Arrive in Auckland in the evening, return car
- Dinner along Princes Wharf
Day 8: Auckland
- Visit Weta Workshop for a tour
- Go up the Sky Tower for panoramic city views (we got a combo Weta + Sky Tower ticket online)
- Lose some money in the Sky City casino
- Beer, wine, dinner
Day 9: Auckland
- Visit the Auckland War Memorial Museum for Maori and Pacific Islander artifacts. The Maori Cultural Experience (twice a day, book ahead) is highly recommended.
- Shopping downtown
OR - Full day: Take a ferry to Waiheke Island for more vineyards, beaches, and hiking trails.
Day 10: Depart
- We had a final, satisfying seafood lunch at The Shucker Brothers by the water’s edge.















===
As always, returning to Singapore’s heat after a little time in a temperate climate was brutal. It’s one of the main reasons I would entertain the idea of moving away or owning a second property somewhere. It’s often said that a little sunshine and walking does wonders for your mood and helps people with depression, and I really did feel a lot less weight on me coming back with a watch tan after 10 days, but this weather is not made for walking. And so I expect this feeling will fade with the tan.
Since coming back, we finished Season 7 of Below Deck, and I’ve just gone totally off Captain Lee and Kate now, formerly the least-bad people in that toxic stew of management hell/training that I’ve recommended people watch the show for in the past. We’ve now started on Below Deck Down Under, and the Australian captain there is a breath of fresh air. Where Captain Lee stayed in his bridge oblivious to the crew’s troubles with bullying and insubordination, this one is hands-on, leads by example, and even joins them for dinner (but wisely not clubbing) on the first night out. You already know he sees what’s going on, who doesn’t pull their weight, and knows how to address it. To top it all off, he’s hot and the interior girls can’t stop looking at him.







































